Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, started my car this morning almost stalled it never does that, and from the rockercovers more aless the intake sound there is a knocking sound, ive noticed it b4 but it goes away and it came back its inside the engine, anythign to worry about? normal oil pressure, cool water temps?

and if so how much would it cost me to get the bottem end rebuilt? and or the top end? in perth

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/
Share on other sites

yea as i rev it it speeds up and as the revs come down the nose slows down and almost stops, but as it hits idel rpm its back

yo im having a simular issue, i just had a small prang the other day an i start the engine up to keep the oil from going stagnant... bout to get it fixed but im worried it may have hurt the engine although the damage was to the gaurd it didnt touch the engine bay but i dunno.. anyways... point is when my revs go up say 2grand i hear a knocking sound not the ur tipical injectors firing sorta sound but more like a rubbing sound or something more or less... once it goes idle sound goes away, also the fan got pushed back a nudge due to the impact... an literally a nudge an sounds like the sound is coming from the fan / front end of the engine area... so might be the fan itself no idea ill be taking it to get a full service an check up an what not as well as getting the gaurd fixed but yea just thought if any 1 has any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4557088
Share on other sites

U better hope its your lifters, and try not to drive your car too long without getting it checked out. That happened to me, got it serviced but the mech was to much of a noob to find what was wrong, turned out that i did a bearing and broke a rod or something,,the knocking sound became a crucnhing sound. long story short, i did a top and bottom end rebuild, cost about 7k, cz i went and forged everything, but it ended up worth it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4557102
Share on other sites

its not coming from the fan, ive spent so much money with my mechanic with my car, and itsb een making the sound since the last service when i had to get it over the pits, and it passed and no one noticed it, im getting greddy emanage installed and dyno'ed so ill see if he can check it out if it blows ill bash a rb26 in it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4557219
Share on other sites

Get the knocking sound sorted before you dyno it. Last thing you want is it throwing a rod out the side of the block on the dyno.

If its rising with revs then theres a good chance that you have done a big end bearing, Ive been down this road once myself... never fun...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4558239
Share on other sites

Get the knocking sound sorted before you dyno it. Last thing you want is it throwing a rod out the side of the block on the dyno.

If its rising with revs then theres a good chance that you have done a big end bearing, Ive been down this road once myself... never fun...

I second that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4558281
Share on other sites

okay, i found some stuff out, when i start it for the first time in a day the noise is there only slightly not very loud, then as i drive around and after about 10-15 mins its pretty much gone, the only thing is when i rev it under the hood and the reves are coming back down there is a slight like rotating sound like if somethign were rotating but off balance sorta thing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-4559213
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
Get the knocking sound sorted before you dyno it. Last thing you want is it throwing a rod out the side of the block on the dyno.

If its rising with revs then theres a good chance that you have done a big end bearing, Ive been down this road once myself... never fun...

so im reading this article on knocking sounds and stuff and as above you've experienced this? just needed some help, woundering if you could lend some, so i have this slight very hard to hear knock starts at about 1200rpm and falls at 1600rpm sounds almost identical to this guys sound (

) on youtube if you have the time, but a lil less noticable, i dont know if its the timing belts or what =S as its coming from the front section of the engine directly where the timing belts sit ( i think at the front end of the engine?)

and now i have this thought it could be a knocking sound and now sorta seeking advice. and if it is? top or bottom and perhaps you might even know costs?

thnx any advice is much appreciated,

- Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-5024021
Share on other sites

It's not timing belt or tensioner.

I have the same noise. Have had for past maybe 5000km or so.

It isn't bottom end noise, I'm pretty sure of that.

I'm convinced it's in the valvetrain. And if it's this common, I'm going to suggest lifters. But just to be sure I've got consult cable coming.

Top end rebuild of an RB25DET guys - ball parks if you've had one?

Edited by Dorigecko
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-5024075
Share on other sites

If its a knocking sounds that seems like its coming from the rocket cover, or somewhere below, the harmonic balancer might be loose. You can tell if you rev the engine and the tapping increases. Obviously while at higher speeds it will be unnoticable. If this sounds like a familar story you could be ok and its as simple as just tightening the bolt which feeds through the harmonic balancer, may also need to adjusts your belts as well. However if you have left it for to long and its slowly come loose over a period of time which btw will be completly oblivious to you, kind of like a cancer through your bottom end and treating cancer is expensive...aka bottom rebuild. Never the less if your only just noticed you might be ok, as i bloody hope so, but i sugguest you get your car to an expierencd mechine asap, as this is an inherent curse RB's carry, i know i had cancer too :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267131-kocking-sound/#findComment-5024127
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...