Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

still not working. put the nismo slave back on and it has throw but not enough to disengage....spoke to anthony from maztech and he said this happens all the time with these clutches. FFFSSS!

so back on goes the 1-1 slave heavy but hopefully this gives that extra bit of throw i need to push in this bad boy...

Sorry for the resurrection but it hasn't been dead for that long.. :P

Anyone know where I can source one of these smaller diameter release bearings/carriers? or have a part number?

Cheers!

Direct from nissan.

still not working. put the nismo slave back on and it has throw but not enough to disengage....spoke to anthony from maztech and he said this happens all the time with these clutches. FFFSSS!

so back on goes the 1-1 slave heavy but hopefully this gives that extra bit of throw i need to push in this bad boy...

Nope still didnt fix the throw problem. have full throw of the slave and it still does not disengage this POS clutch. Now i have to go back to spacing out the Pivot ball to bring it 10mm closer again....hopefully without having to remove the gearbox/engine again... but from past experience i may have to. Possibly look at cutting a hole in the side of the box and retigging it back up when its done...

so i tried spacing the pivot ball and this did not help the clutch now goes into gear but still has issues with the wheels turning while the clutch is in.

anybody with an idea care to give me a clue?

Edited by xris
  • 2 years later...

hey guys i have this exact clutch, how did you guys fix this issue?? the tuner is finding that itl go into gear with alot of force, and foot to the floor. but its REALLY not nice!

resleeve the slave

extend the pivot point

longer bearing holder

which one fixes the issue??? any further info on you you got it to work would be great!!!!!

  • 3 months later...

Lesson to be learnt from all of this is DO NOT BUY A CLUTCH FROM DCA /Direct Clutch. I ended up sending mine to NPC to asses and let me know what was wrong with it. Apparently the Pressure plate was wrong the teeth were over extending causing the rivets to wear and come loose making it harder to disengage. So i had them fix it for me cost $160 lol.

So now engine is out again and im finally going to get this to work (i gave up on it and went a jap clutch threw it in and it worked straight away) but now i want to push some decent power i need the twin plate

So they have sent it back and asked me to do the following

Measure bearing to bell housing outer currently sitting at - 80mm

Then measure ring gear to top of clutch. - 85mm

Ive also taken a few other measurements like back of engine to top of clutch/teeth when tightened - 75mm

So i'll give the guys at NPC a call today with these details and im sure they will tell me i'll need to buy a new bearing carrier X length so i have X amount of throw for it to work.

Will update this thread once i call them and give them the details.

And for the person who said are the plates backward LOL no they will only fit one way and then on top of that they have stickers saying to flywheel to pressureplate etc. so yeah ive had this thing apart and back together that many times its retarded. i even swapped it for a rb25 box and the guy also had problems with a stock setup so i knew then it wasnt just my setup causing this so gave the box back and now im here again lol

Edited by xris

Ok so ive spoken to Doug at NPC and he asked for the following

Bearing Carrier to bellhousing length is 80mm (70mm +10mm for adaptor plate)

Clutch from Block to face - 88mm

Teeth to clutch is 10mm

So we have a throw of 2mm. He told me it needs to have at least 6mm. But suggested i get a bearing carrier 6mm shorter than the one i have atm giving us a throw of 8mm.

Edited by xris

So going by these part numbers i'll measure the one i have atm and get the one 6mm (or closest) to that size.

30501-A3800 12mm,

30501-N1601 14mm,

30501-U0200 16mm,

30501-S0200 18mm,

30501-B6000 20mm,

30501-S0160 22mm,

30501-K0404 24mm,

30501-K0510 26mm,

30501-N1600 28mm,

30501-N8400 30mm

  • 4 months later...

So here ends my dcs clutch. worked with the above 6-8mm of throw for 1 lap then the twin plate sound went away. (and yes i had 8mm of throw on the clutch so it didnt over extend)

think i found out why......

post-37896-0-69931000-1419284872_thumb.jpg

lesson to be learnt, use a quality jap brand you can trust.

Edited by xris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...