Jump to content
SAU Community

Installed Twin Plate And Clutch Wont Disengage

a31lunacy
 Share

Recommended Posts

xris Enthusiast

xris

Posted
Posted

still not working. put the nismo slave back on and it has throw but not enough to disengage....spoke to anthony from maztech and he said this happens all the time with these clutches. FFFSSS!

so back on goes the 1-1 slave heavy but hopefully this gives that extra bit of throw i need to push in this bad boy...

xris Enthusiast

xris

Posted
Posted

Sorry for the resurrection but it hasn't been dead for that long.. :P

Anyone know where I can source one of these smaller diameter release bearings/carriers? or have a part number?

Cheers!

Direct from nissan.

xris Enthusiast

xris

Posted
Posted

still not working. put the nismo slave back on and it has throw but not enough to disengage....spoke to anthony from maztech and he said this happens all the time with these clutches. FFFSSS!

so back on goes the 1-1 slave heavy but hopefully this gives that extra bit of throw i need to push in this bad boy...

Nope still didnt fix the throw problem. have full throw of the slave and it still does not disengage this POS clutch. Now i have to go back to spacing out the Pivot ball to bring it 10mm closer again....hopefully without having to remove the gearbox/engine again... but from past experience i may have to. Possibly look at cutting a hole in the side of the box and retigging it back up when its done...

xris Enthusiast

xris

Posted
Posted (edited)

so i tried spacing the pivot ball and this did not help the clutch now goes into gear but still has issues with the wheels turning while the clutch is in.

anybody with an idea care to give me a clue?

Edited by xris
  • 2 years later...
ScreamerNewbie Enthusiast

ScreamerNewbie

Posted
Posted

hey guys i have this exact clutch, how did you guys fix this issue?? the tuner is finding that itl go into gear with alot of force, and foot to the floor. but its REALLY not nice!

resleeve the slave

extend the pivot point

longer bearing holder

which one fixes the issue??? any further info on you you got it to work would be great!!!!!

  • 3 months later...
xris Enthusiast

xris

Posted
Posted (edited)

Lesson to be learnt from all of this is DO NOT BUY A CLUTCH FROM DCA /Direct Clutch. I ended up sending mine to NPC to asses and let me know what was wrong with it. Apparently the Pressure plate was wrong the teeth were over extending causing the rivets to wear and come loose making it harder to disengage. So i had them fix it for me cost $160 lol.

So now engine is out again and im finally going to get this to work (i gave up on it and went a jap clutch threw it in and it worked straight away) but now i want to push some decent power i need the twin plate

So they have sent it back and asked me to do the following

Measure bearing to bell housing outer currently sitting at - 80mm

Then measure ring gear to top of clutch. - 85mm

Ive also taken a few other measurements like back of engine to top of clutch/teeth when tightened - 75mm

So i'll give the guys at NPC a call today with these details and im sure they will tell me i'll need to buy a new bearing carrier X length so i have X amount of throw for it to work.

Will update this thread once i call them and give them the details.

And for the person who said are the plates backward LOL no they will only fit one way and then on top of that they have stickers saying to flywheel to pressureplate etc. so yeah ive had this thing apart and back together that many times its retarded. i even swapped it for a rb25 box and the guy also had problems with a stock setup so i knew then it wasnt just my setup causing this so gave the box back and now im here again lol

Edited by xris
xris Enthusiast

xris

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok so ive spoken to Doug at NPC and he asked for the following

Bearing Carrier to bellhousing length is 80mm (70mm +10mm for adaptor plate)

Clutch from Block to face - 88mm

Teeth to clutch is 10mm

So we have a throw of 2mm. He told me it needs to have at least 6mm. But suggested i get a bearing carrier 6mm shorter than the one i have atm giving us a throw of 8mm.

Edited by xris
xris Enthusiast

xris

Posted
Posted

So going by these part numbers i'll measure the one i have atm and get the one 6mm (or closest) to that size.

30501-A3800 12mm,

30501-N1601 14mm,

30501-U0200 16mm,

30501-S0200 18mm,

30501-B6000 20mm,

30501-S0160 22mm,

30501-K0404 24mm,

30501-K0510 26mm,

30501-N1600 28mm,

30501-N8400 30mm

  • 4 months later...
xris Enthusiast

xris

Posted
Posted (edited)

So here ends my dcs clutch. worked with the above 6-8mm of throw for 1 lap then the twin plate sound went away. (and yes i had 8mm of throw on the clutch so it didnt over extend)

think i found out why......

post-37896-0-69931000-1419284872_thumb.jpg

lesson to be learnt, use a quality jap brand you can trust.

Edited by xris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...