Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone know whats the max time you can get your car detailed/polished per year without damaging your paint etc? ive got mine detailed 4 times since oct last year.

who did you go with for detailing here?

Washed the car for the first time after the detail. (Damn rain has been keeping me from doing this)

What a difference a detail makes to the ease of cleaning the car.

The dirt wipes right off the top, easy.

I didnt even realise how dirty the car was until i washed it, i guess i was used to it looking dull.

Another plus for having the car detailed, washes are now very easy.

And it looks the same as it did when mark did it, meaning the products are really doing their job.

Washed the car for the first time after the detail. (Damn rain has been keeping me from doing this)

What a difference a detail makes to the ease of cleaning the car.

The dirt wipes right off the top, easy.

I didnt even realise how dirty the car was until i washed it, i guess i was used to it looking dull.

Another plus for having the car detailed, washes are now very easy.

And it looks the same as it did when mark did it, meaning the products are really doing their job.

i agree on that.

hes making good investments on those polish and wax he uses eh...

well you dont get that kinda value for money in brisbane...

costs more than $350 for inside and out here.

HAAAH ?!? What a rip ouch!

When i used to do mobile detailing, i'd charge ~$250 for in and out.

After the detail, the best thing you can do is look up ways to wash the car properly (ie washing without scratching. There's a couple of Aussie forums dedicated to detailing if you google.

He charged me $350 for about 6 hours work, no inside work. I told him he was recommended by Dr.Detail who did someones black v35 for $350 inside and out, and he said he cant do that. He said he would have to charge more if he did more work on the outside so i just got $350 worth.

If you've got a silver car, i wouldnt recommend it or try someone else who is a bit cheaper.

Edited by Eldubb

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...