Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1996 R33 Skyline GTS-T Series 2 with very mild mods - TurboXS High Performance Boost controller set to 10psi and a 3" dump leading into a stock cat-back exhaust system.

I've read various threads indicating that an Apexi S-AFC makes a good improvement even on a stock vehicle. But upon speaking with some performance shops in Sydney, they've indicated that I may not gain anything.

Can I please get some comments from fellow members who are using an Apexi S-AFC and the mods on their vehicles.

I was looking at getting an S-AFC II but now I'm thinking twice. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/
Share on other sites

I'd be very surprised if it didn't give you an imporvement. The only real way to tell is to have a dyno run which shows the AFR's, and depending on how far it deviates from the desired level (about 12:1) then you can determine whether it will have a major impact.

If your considering full management down the track then save for either the PowerFC or Wolf.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/#findComment-577226
Share on other sites

Full management will give you more gains due to the fact it can control the timing aswell as the fuel, but really depends on how far you want to push the modifications. If your sticking with the stock turbo then get an SAFC, if your planning on doing a turbo upgrade then go full management.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/#findComment-577252
Share on other sites

It really depends on what future plans you have for your car. If your just gonna get a full exhaust later and maybe a tad more boost than a SAFC will serve you very well. If your planning on getting a bigger turbo etc later on, then get a PFC first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/#findComment-578218
Share on other sites

These are all valid points that have been raised However I have a SAFC on my R32 and it works like a charm. I wouldn't bother running an SAFC or any other management with those mods, because in my opinion it wouldn't be worth your while. I have a bigger turbo, FMIC, BOV, 550hp pump and SAFC and am making 320hp at the wheels. I don't think that I really need a Microtech or anything like that, and consider that SAFC's are going cheap on ebay for like $250 you cant really go wrong. You can do all the fuel related tuning with the SAFC and max out the duty cycle on your fuel system, and it removes your boost cut fuel cut and speed cut. I think thats all you basically need unless you are after really big power an SAFC will do fine. Sure you don't have the fine tuning as others might but then again you don't have the problems such as rough idle, stalling, hard to start because your std ECU runs everything else like it was a standard unmodified car. hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/#findComment-578312
Share on other sites

Well depends how your car is running now. Mine was running like a dog with full exhaust and extra boost. Turn the boost up and it was terrible. Not once i could rev it out cleanly. Turn the boost down and it was better put still missing. It turned out too be, too much fuel. Put the SAFC in and with some tuning and some extra boosting, the power curve went from 120rwkw to 178 rwkw. If i was running standard boost it may have been more than 120rwkw without the SAFC but not much more. Now it revs out cleanly in any gear and i love it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/#findComment-578386
Share on other sites

Don't forget though to check how much it will cost you to get the safc installed as it needs to be spliced in the stock ecu whereas anyone can plug in the powerfc and select the base fuel map, i would recommend powerfc over safc if you can afford it plus with fc commander you can check all the duty cycles/knock sensor/temps and everything.

Jamie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/#findComment-578405
Share on other sites

I think ANYONE would recommend the PowerFC over the S-AFC if they could afford it. The real question is it worth going without any ECU modification at all until you save up the required $1100+ for the PowerFC?

My answer would be definitely not. If you are strapped for cash then get a 2nd hand S-AFC then sell it for what you paid for it and buy a PowerFC after you've saved up the rest.

But if you are sick of shovelling money into the bottomless pit that cars are, be happy with the S-AFC. It's better than nothing and a good place to stop at for ECU mods.

My S-AFC was installed for free. By me :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/#findComment-578425
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for all your input.

I don't plan to do much more to my car. At the most, maybe replace the stock cat back exhaust system. Based on this, i don't think I will ever need to go to a PowerFC.

The only reason why I'm considering the S-AFC is because a friend of mine is going to Japan.

He has already done some shopping around and could potentially pick up a 2nd-hand S-AFC II for less than AUS$150.

I figure, if I don't gain much from it, I could just re-sell it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/#findComment-578497
Share on other sites

  Quote
Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Full management will give you more gains due to the fact it can control the timing aswell as the fuel

Well, couldn't you use an aftermarket ignition with "boost retard" to pull the timing while in boost? I know MSD has the BTM which will do this for distributor cars, but is there one for distributorless cars?

Also, what kind of power is the SAFC setup capable of handling?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/#findComment-578671
Share on other sites

  Quote
Originally posted by silver33

He has already done some shopping around and could potentially pick up a 2nd-hand S-AFC II for less than AUS$150.

You're only paying $150 and you're asking if you should bother or not?! Dude, even if you bought it and never installed it, you could immediately sell it for $200-300 profit easy. Just get it, no question needs to be asked! But yeah I think you should install it once you get it rather than immediately selling it :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27552-to-s-afc-or-not/#findComment-578686
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with no BOV you will have issues unless the MAF is a hot film type like the R35 which has some design features to deal with reversion. Hot wire MAFs are very sensitive.
    • So i just change the (whatever is inside ma original MAF and slide the R34 MAF (it is gonna fit right in? ) and somewhere on the hot side a BoV...i presume that would be vented to the atmo? I just "trying" to understand...maybe my mechanic would know this   I would not mind(even prefer) to run stock BoV cuz it is way more than fine but i do not have that and only pipeing what is left is oem J pipe ... I will be running Blitz fmic(to fit oem one side style) and i gonna need custom pipes cuz i do not have rest of those pipes and hoses... But i am want standalone ECU. Only choice i have atm is Nistune...but that is not gonna cut it right?I dont know what Nistune can and cant do... I know you guys know Link and Haltech...but whatabout ECUmaster? I know guys in here run those but i literally do not know about that and do not know differences... Just know to take whatever "my" tuner can work on.  
    • Is that the blue one rpm?  
    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
×
×
  • Create New...