Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

well had my new car two weeks now, loving it so far.

anywho my car came with the 34 gtt wheels on it, so today i unplugged my sub to see what spare wheel i had.

check the wheel, put the subs back in the boot, wired them up and now nothing.

also, the sound system still works but just no subs.

i dunno much about the sound system but its a cadence (or somthing) amy that is powering 2 JVC subs and for some reason they decided not to work.

i manage to ellinimate the following possible causes:

1: wires touching (if they did at any point there was no power running through the sound system/car)

2: wrong wires in wrong connections (dont know much about sound systems but i remember what wire connected where, but it didnt work, tried change the wires to the terminals but still nothing, hook it back up the way i rememberd undoing them but still nothing.)

there is power to the amplifier, and when i turn the key to the first notch that powers only the clock and sound system, i get one doof from the subs but then nothing with music going.

can anyone help me?! its driving me nuts!!!!

Edited by buckets
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276883-need-some-help-all-out-of-ideas/
Share on other sites

If u get a "doof" initially when you turn it on, id definatley say theres wires touching eachother and its shorting out.

If you put the volume level down low enough, there shouldnt be enough current to short it out so try turning it on with the sound low and see if the subs work. If they work, its wires making contact where they shouldnt.

Hope this helps, good luck

If u get a "doof" initially when you turn it on, id definatley say theres wires touching eachother and its shorting out.

If you put the volume level down low enough, there shouldnt be enough current to short it out so try turning it on with the sound low and see if the subs work. If they work, its wires making contact where they shouldnt.

Hope this helps, good luck

hey man, gave it a go

didnt work.

i also noticed that the doof at the start looks like the subs going in and out.

like its a doof before the music starts, subs flow in and out couple of times (not a loud doof) but then no noise once music is on

If u get a "doof" initially when you turn it on, id definatley say theres wires touching eachother and its shorting out.

If you put the volume level down low enough, there shouldnt be enough current to short it out so try turning it on with the sound low and see if the subs work. If they work, its wires making contact where they shouldnt.

Hope this helps, good luck

hey man, gave it a go

didnt work.

i also noticed that the doof at the start looks like the subs going in and out.

like its a doof before the music starts, subs flow in and out couple of times (not a loud doof) but then no noise once music is on

Ahh tht sucks, sorry mate not much else i can think of without acctually seeing it, im not exactly a guru on the subject anyways, i just know the basics.

Ill re-post if i can think of anything else but untill then, maybe get a mate to hook their sub up to the amp and see what happens, then you know if its the subs or the amp.

Edited by Joe_89

hey guys

today i manage to check the wiring, wiring inside the sub and the amp's fuse.

all fine.

so no idea what is wrong now, also worked out i have a monoblock if that changes.

any ideas would be great, will check connection to head unit tomorrow

Do you get a light on the amp when it's on? check to see if theres a key anywhere e.g. green for OK red for protect mode.

Since you're getting the initial "doof" when the amp turns on it's getting power, if the amp stays on it's possible the RCA leads from the head unit have been knocked out. It's also possible moving everything around you've changed the AMP from low to high crossover, check on the amp for such a switch it should be in the low position for subs.

hey guys

well today i was able to get to the back of my headunit, all connections were fine along with RCA connections.

whilist i had the headunit out, i changed my headunits (one in my old car was better)

did all the wirering and presto, the subs now work!

no idea how but, thinking RCA connections in back of headunit were dodgey??

many thanks to leon for all his advice, top bloke! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...