Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys and Gals (of coarse )

I'm looking to get a front mount intercooler and a boost controller, preferably an electronic one. Wondering if anyone has some recommendations for some good places to shop/install.

I live in the GC and dont have a clue where these places are.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278905-quick-question/
Share on other sites

Hey Guys and Gals (of coarse )

I'm looking to get a front mount intercooler and a boost controller, preferably an electronic one. Wondering if anyone has some recommendations for some good places to shop/install.

I live in the GC and dont have a clue where these places are.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :P

Hey mate,

For your intercooler (depending on how much you will do to your car in the future) a good cheap, safe bet to go with is an FMIC from Just Jap, they're a very reliable import parts company that specialise in mail order. I actualy bought mine through them and fitted it myself, I couldn't've asked for more, I think it's quite rad.

They're on the site as traders, heres the link to the FMIC (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cooling-Pro-Intercooler-K-t138738.html) and here is the link to thier online catalogue (www.justjap.com), if you go through the forums they are cheaper though.

As for the boost controller, I have what's called a 'Bleed T' valve set up from Turbosmart, which basically just opens and closes a valve allowing more or less boost to run. Honestly, its cheap, reliable and really you're not going to change your boost settings at all once you have it set up. I know it's cool to have a little lcd with your poundage shown for all to see, but its a far dearer option and most people have to have them professionally fitted.

If you're wondering what you should be looking at after that (or even before the boost controller because you'll have to have your car re-tuned anyway) is getting an APEXI PowerFC, this is a complete ECU system for your skyline, it adds the most KW per buck and is another bolt-on upgrade you can do, of course you'll need to get it mapped and dyno'd (but you'll have to get the car re-tuned for the extra poundage you'll be running anyway). It comes with a hand controller that displays all sorts of wicked crap for your own personal enjoyment <.< or something, so you get your lcd fix there.

And think about your exhaust too, do all the upgrades you can do before you have to have that tune, that way everything will be in a neat, sexy little package when you're done.

But then again, this is just how I went about things. I asked this exact same question when I started out and this is pretty much the answer I got ... and it helped me out a great deal.

If you wanted to know this was my build order:

Racing clutch

FMIC

Turbo back exhaust

PowerFc, Bleed T (set to 12 PSI, runs 13/13.5 on a cold night. 12 is a safe option for a generally stock car) and dyno all at once

Other shit as well, but they arent really important.

-Kieran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278905-quick-question/#findComment-4711902
Share on other sites

simple man.

going of my asumpting on you having a 32 rb20 gtst???

as for exhaust i also asume you have somthing as majority of 32s come over here with liek a hks or kakimoto.

1. spent 300-500 on a fmic kit, chinese / jap do the same sort of job. (ISC, Coolerpro, Basic Hybrid) if you spend money on a hybrid they come with instructions, if you pm me your email ill email them, have a read and think about doing it yourself.

2. spend 30-80 on a boost T, asuming you have a boost gauge go for a drive and bleed 10psi.

that will be safe an effective.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278905-quick-question/#findComment-4712713
Share on other sites

Hey Guys,

Sorry I've been AWOL for past couple of days, but thanks for the information. Its given me some food for thought.

P.S thanks for the PM Redsuns88, I will be giving you a call as soon as I get a chance. I could could not PM back coz I dont have enough posts yet.

Kyle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278905-quick-question/#findComment-4719902
Share on other sites

I'd advise against a bleed valve. They are a cheap nasty way of upping boost. You get what you pay for and electronic boost controllers are a better (though dearer) option. Yuo set the boost you want and it holds it for you, no fiddling around, no creeping, no spiking. Spend the money and save an engine later...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278905-quick-question/#findComment-4722277
Share on other sites

Bleed valves are fine IMO for lower power and lower boost applications. I do agree however with "you get what you pay for" - id never take a bleed over my ID3, its great, and it has protection against overboost, logging etc and multiple settings with are quite useful, also theres other things like scramble boost, if you want to do that, etc...

But for anything under 15 psi i think a bleed would be fine, just my opinion however one of many.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278905-quick-question/#findComment-4722678
Share on other sites

I've decided to go the electronic boost way, as I initially wanted to. So now its a toss up between the greedy and turbosmart eboost2. I heard that eboost street is not really that good, hence the eboost2. I also like the fact that it can fit in a normal pillar pod, making things look a whole lot neater.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278905-quick-question/#findComment-4727997
Share on other sites

I've decided to go the electronic boost way, as I initially wanted to. So now its a toss up between the greedy and turbosmart eboost2. I heard that eboost street is not really that good, hence the eboost2. I also like the fact that it can fit in a normal pillar pod, making things look a whole lot neater.

Never seen one of the turbosmart eboost2 before but at the price they must be good.

I would compare specs and prices and see which one comes out on top!

If they are mostly the same I would just go for which one you like the look of more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278905-quick-question/#findComment-4728177
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers fellas, I got a price for a r33 gtst box was 1500 including post and thought it was too cheap  
    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
×
×
  • Create New...