Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, my friend is selling his car. Heres the info.

-1st owner in Australia since 2006, No accidents

-Regretful sale. I don't use it much anymore because it's not practical for work (can't transport merchandise).

- No expense spared when it comes to servicing using mainly Motul oils. Serviced every 5000kms with full service history, receipts for all modifications.

-Interior and exterior is immaculate. Cleanest R33 on here, does not look like 145,000kms. No cracks in dash like thrashed R33s out there.

-New tires Toyo Proxes T1R with 90% tread

-Gearbox professionally replaced @ 70 000kms brand new (not recoed). Gearbox is smooth, not notchy, all synchros work, 5th gear does not pop out.

Modifications:

Engine:

RB25DET @ 231rwkw @ 20psi with dyno graphs to prove

- GT2871 Turbo (responsive Full boost @ 3000rpm)

- Apexi Power FC w/ Hand controller conservatively tuned by UniGroup Engineering

- Apexi Power Intake air filter kit

- Apexi Boost controller function for PFC

- Spitfire coil packs

- Trust FMIC w/ silicone hoses

- Golpher alloy radiator (no overheating on hot days!)

- HKS 3.5" (full system incl. dump pipes etc.) with SARD Hi-Flow catalytic convertor. [Not droney has a nice RB25 note].

- HKS 555cc injectors

- HKS Fuel pump

- Nismo fuel reg

- Custom made aluminium airbox (not exposed and defectable like other cars)

- Go Fast Bits plumback blow off valve (no g*y turbo noises)

- Bosch Z32 Air flow Meter

Suspension:

- TEIN Super drift adj coilovers

- GREDDY Front Strut brace

- Cusco Rear Strut brace

- Whiteline fr and rear sway bars

- Whiteline "pineapples" for better rear suspension feel

Wheels:

- Gramlight (RAYS Engineering) 57Maximum 18"x8.5FR 18"x9.5R in custom gunmetal blue.

- Volk lightweight wheel nuts (save some grams!!)

- Bought brand new

Brakes:

- Nismo braided brake lines F&R

- DBA4000s(?) slotted rotors F&R

- Ferodo Formulas brake pads F&R

Interior:

- Immaculate condition, non smoker never been smoked in, no pets, no s*x inside vehicle.

- Pioneer head unit (cost $750 brand new)

- Pioneer splits and tweeters

- Pioneer 6x9

- Soundstream amp

- Nismo mats

All prof installed, neat wiring

All top of the range

Exterior:

- Window tints

- Nissan M-Spec side skirts and rear pods prof installed and colour matched.

PRICE $19,000 ONO with less parts

No Trades Genuine buyers only Test drives NOT JOY RIDES. Driven by myself. This car has been very reliable and hasn't been modified to excess, well within the limits of Nissan's engineering.

5929245.jpg

5929252.jpg

5929258.jpg

5929266.jpg

5929274.jpg

5929286.jpg

5929297.jpg

5929310.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...