Rb20det Mods

[sleeper31]

hi guys im Ben new to SAU

i have a 1989 cefiro with a few mods :

rb20det

front facing aftermarket plenum with larger TB

high mount td06 turbz (recond and hi flowed iam told! )

new ported and polished head

550cc injectors

rising rate fuel reg

mines ECU

off center FMIC

dual stage EBC

2.5" exhaust with aftermarket dump pipe

susp:

mech 2 way LSD

coilovers all round

r33/s14 5stud brakes(2 pot front)

gtr swaybar in front

aftermarket rear swaybar

s14 steering rack

s14 LCA's

aftermarket castor rods shiny and rose jointed

new bushes all round

r33 running gear

r33 box with short shifter

currently making 179hp and 284ftpds of torque at 9psi ( it is starting to lean out slightly )

im just about to install a 3inch exhaust and a GTR fuel pump (i really dont know why the pump hadnt been upgraded already)

but i ask all u gurus out there ????

what do i need to acheive 200-210 rwkw with this setup

also the AFM looks new and bigger than stock could be z32 maybe?? how do i tell ??

also the car handles sooo well but im getting a slight judder from rear left on full lock any ideas???

and when its really cold the steering can be quite heavy at times would it be the pump or the rack??

the gear stick sometimes pops into neutral when coasting WHY ???

im just lookin for a bit more power ,

and as soon as i fix a few other things this car is ready to drift so il be out on the track

cant wait to hone my skills meet you all ,

any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks folks

Ben

Edited July 26, 2009 by sleeper31

[Nic_A31]

Sounds like its already drift capable. I dunno if pushing 300+hp in an RB20DET is going to be reliable.

* RBs have a slightly smaller 4 pin clip, Z32s have a larger, 5 pin? clip. I'll take a pic later if you want.

* 2 way diff's do that under full lock

* Check out your PS fluid first

* How's the life of the box been? Some boxes are easier than others to force into neutral, depending on how they've been treated and their age. Maybe get a rebuild, re-do the syncro's ?

[sleeper31]

thanks for the speedy reply man

so guys does anyone know : is 200rwkw pushing it for an rb20 ?? and why ??

its running really low boost atm 9psi how much can i run and be safe (after fuel pump and exhaust upgrade).

i intend on installing catch can and oil cooler dont want it over heating !!!...... is a power steering cooler nessesary or just overkill

Edited July 26, 2009 by sleeper31

[Nic_A31]

Power steering cooler is pointless and overkill.

Dunno how much boost you can push, especially with aftermarket turbo, someone else can give you than answer.

I've read in a few places, about 300hp is the limits of the RB20 before it'll start getting upset, alot of people do push over 200rwkw, but keep in mind it's still only a 2000cc engine. Generally, if you want that much power, dropping in the RB25 or bigger is the way to go.

Some lines of the later model A31s had the RB25DE, dunno if the crossmembers are different though. I know some modifying is needed for 26s and 30s. Look in the parts list sticky in thos forum, there is a link to doing the 25 swap.

After this weekend's nightmares, I'm highly considering upgrading to a 25, less troubles and alot more support + mods for them.

[sleeper31]

shit what happened this weekend Nic_A31???

the plan is to drop a rb25 or 25/30 hybrid in once i have saved enough after paint and bodykit

i like the weight balance ATM and with the 20 being just a little bit lighter i dont really wanna change that to much ??? rb24 maybe???

i wanna get as close to 200rwkw as possible does anyone else know how to do this safely???

and i think i do have the z32 AFM its 5 pin clip and it looks like its been rewired

[Nic_A31]

I just read the sticky myself, apparently they clip straight in but I beg to differ as my new loom doesnt connect to my AFM, which doesnt seem to be re-wired, unless it was done properly.

The only true RB24 is the RB24S (carby, not EFI), from the LHD Ceffy sold in some parts of Asia), so either bore out a 20 and I dunno what pistons you'd use, or get a 25.

RB30DETTs are cool, you can see how theyre made on the WikiPedia article for RB Engines

My ignition system is all cooked due to previous owner taping together ignitor pack wires, not soldering properly. Exhaust stud closest to the firewall snapped 5mm inside the block today, can't get it out with my current tools. Got some fuel issues and a ton of eletrical problems, both inside and in the engine bay. Finding problems faster than Im fixing them, on what is meant to be a 91'000km RB20 w/ 100k service already done.

Might as well take my new clutch and polished n ported extractors, and sell the engine and box in favor of a 25 half cut, all problems solved.

Bigger horizon for power, more mods, more support, generally better technology.

[sleeper31]

that sux man if u were in qld id give ya a hand ....an yea 25's are superior in most ways but with an extra 150lbs

i beleive u can use the rb26 crank and other nissan internals to create the rb24 i just read that some bloke on SAU did it in america http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...tml&hl=rb24 hey its different an i like that!

but with all pro and cons weighed up rb25 is the smart option

well see il get the most out of the 20 for now

good luck with ur car those exhaust studs can be flamin mongrely, and electrics is probably the worst thing about turbocharged cars

[sleeper31]

hahaha just tried to write C#N#Y the word turned into flamin mongrely lol

[bbe]

z32 afm plug strate into to ceffy connectors.

stf afm should see 240 atw anyway i have seen this many times.

all of those mentioned mods should see 220 or so atw on about 15-17 psi your car seems a lil down in power atm.

id me getting rid of the mines ecu and rempaping the standard ecu or goin power fc

[bbe]

just to add quikly my mate and i went down just for power run to see how our cars were running

his rb20, just zorst,pod,15psi with r34 turbo ran 196 kwatw with stok un remapped puter.

so yours should be exceeding this easily.