Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys did the hicas diagnostics on my car,

Came up with

(according to the thread in tutorial/DIY sect)

21. Vehicle speed sensor not present

I saw a guy replaced one in his R32 behind the dash, but is this where the hicas would get its reading from?

Is there another sensor somewhere the hicas reads?

also where would i get one of these to replace it?, or how can if fix it (if its repairable)

Cheers in advance

85URK

Not sure about the R33 GTR, it might be similar to the R32 GTR as I went through a few diagnostics with mine.

The R32's have a Steering wheels sensor and the brake fluid sensor, which can trigger off the HICAS Light.

What's wrong with your HICAS?

Does it only come on when the car is started up, whilst driving, turning the steering wheel..?

Not sure about the R33 GTR, it might be similar to the R32 GTR as I went through a few diagnostics with mine.

The R32's have a Steering wheels sensor and the brake fluid sensor, which can trigger off the HICAS Light.

What's wrong with your HICAS?

Does it only come on when the car is started up, whilst driving, turning the steering wheel..?

No i have no hicas light on, but when driving along sometimes the car will start turning by itself then straighten up and repeat again. and this is the only fault that came up on the hicas diag.

So maybe hicas system is getting a dodgey speed reading from the sensor causing it to play up.

No i have no hicas light on, but when driving along sometimes the car will start turning by itself then straighten up and repeat again. and this is the only fault that came up on the hicas diag.

So maybe hicas system is getting a dodgey speed reading from the sensor causing it to play up.

Interesting...

Wheel alignment maybe?

Turning itself?

Meaning if you drive straight the car will start to pull towards one side..?

HICAS is design so when the car is traveling at a high speed (80km/h +) I think, the rear wheels will turn in 1 full degree in the opposite direction of the front wheels, BUT that is only when going around a large bend in the road or hammering it through a corner...

Just from speculation / guessing...

I still believe there is a Steering Wheels Sensor in the R33 GTR's.

Check your Steering Wheels Sensor, it maybe out of alignment and the HICAS computer thinks the car is turning but it is actually not at all...

Interesting...

Wheel alignment maybe?

Turning itself?

Meaning if you drive straight the car will start to pull towards one side..?

HICAS is design so when the car is traveling at a high speed (80km/h +) I think, the rear wheels will turn in 1 full degree in the opposite direction of the front wheels, BUT that is only when going around a large bend in the road or hammering it through a corner...

Just from speculation / guessing...

I still believe there is a Steering Wheels Sensor in the R33 GTR's.

Check your Steering Wheels Sensor, it maybe out of alignment and the HICAS computer thinks the car is turning but it is actually not at all...

Yeah it happened when i was travelling along hway mostly at about 100km/h or over.

Yeah the car pulls to one side suddenly then straighten's up again then does it again. then it will drive normally for ages, it does it randomly.

i have really only had it do it to me a few times as i hardly drive the car for long periods of time on hways etc.

and since the hicas code came up with vehicle speed sensor i was going to start with that, but im not sure where it was located for the hicas?

I have had the car fully wheel aligned and balanced. it has coilovers, so maybe they are not set the same all round or something, wonder if that would cause it to pull to one side or affect the hicas reading?

also Where is the steering wheel sensor located?

on the steering rack somewhere?

Yeah it happened when i was travelling along hway mostly at about 100km/h or over.

Yeah the car pulls to one side suddenly then straighten's up again then does it again. then it will drive normally for ages, it does it randomly.

i have really only had it do it to me a few times as i hardly drive the car for long periods of time on hways etc.

and since the hicas code came up with vehicle speed sensor i was going to start with that, but im not sure where it was located for the hicas?

I have had the car fully wheel aligned and balanced. it has coilovers, so maybe they are not set the same all round or something, wonder if that would cause it to pull to one side or affect the hicas reading?

also Where is the steering wheel sensor located?

on the steering rack somewhere?

Yeah right... Ok.

Sure, start with the Vehicle Speed Sensor.

Again I am unfamiliar where the HICAS is in the R33 but in the R32 there is a Unit in the boot, under the rear parcel shelf in between the rear speakers... Take a look and see...

The Steering wheels sensor is located behind the boss kit, inside the unit where your indicator stalk is just before the dash... Again for R32 GTR is like that, R33 should not be too different.

Can your mechanic help you out too?

Yeah right... Ok.

Sure, start with the Vehicle Speed Sensor.

Again I am unfamiliar where the HICAS is in the R33 but in the R32 there is a Unit in the boot, under the rear parcel shelf in between the rear speakers... Take a look and see...

The Steering wheels sensor is located behind the boss kit, inside the unit where your indicator stalk is just before the dash... Again for R32 GTR is like that, R33 should not be too different.

Can your mechanic help you out too?

yeah we have been having a look at it, but havent managed to figure it out yet. il try take a look at it when i get a chance. been busy lately, and car still drives fine just except for that problem. see how i go. but if anybody can tell me exactly where sensors etc are that would be great. Thanks for your help, much appreciated.

Daz

yeah we have been having a look at it, but havent managed to figure it out yet. il try take a look at it when i get a chance. been busy lately, and car still drives fine just except for that problem. see how i go. but if anybody can tell me exactly where sensors etc are that would be great. Thanks for your help, much appreciated.

Daz

No worries man!

If you can't sort it out just get rid of the HICAS System all together, LOL!

A lot of ppl hate it and it really is just a parking aid when you try to park your car...

All the best and let us know how you go!

:P

Isnt that where the hicas plug is for steering wheel? behind steering column covers, coz my hicas light doesnt stay on at all, and it does light up on the dash when u first turn key on when all the other lights light up.

Then it goes away after engine start up, so this would mean that the steering wheel is connected properly etc, it is a 96 with a series 3 steering wheel on it, it was like that when i got it. but this shouldnt matter much unless the sensor is stuffed, which would inturn make the hicas dashlight, light up shouldnt it?

There could be a HICAS Plug, near the Steering wheel sensor... It probably all interlinks together...

There have been a few HICAS issues with aftermarket steering wheels, but you saying you got a Nissan Series 3 wheel... It should not make too much difference as it is a Nissan Factory steering wheel.

Yeah if the HICAS light was on and stayed on after starting the car, then there will be a bit of a problem, but since it switched off for you after starting it up, there must be just a little hiccup in the system...

Also, try cleaning the Steering Wheel Sensor, that helped me, from memory my mechanic used some WD40 and then compressed air to blow dry it.

OK, here is what I did to isolate the HICAS problem that I had...

Check Powersteering fluid

Check Tires

Check Wheel Alignment

If HICAS light is still on,

Run a diagnostics

Cleaned out steering wheel sensor, it helped but the HICAS light was still coming up when I did a full lock left turn, before cleaning it out it was as soon as I turned the wheel slightly left.

Run Diagnostic again

The diagnostics was be able to read the degrees of the steering wheels sensor, when the steering wheel is at centre position, it should read 0 degrees, but it did not, it was about 30 to 50 degrees out (from memory), this was after the wheel alignment, so my mechanic re-adjusted the tire rods to take everything back to 0 degrees.

This might help to solve your problem so the car does not pull to one side...

As for the Vehicle Speed Sensor... I might have to ask my mechanic when I see him tomorrow and ask him if he can answer that one.

ok cheers.

yeah, well its all good to have the self diagnosis of the hicas system and tell you what the flashes mean, but If it comes up like the vehicle speed sensor, its good to know where to find them to be able to test them etc

That would be great if u can speak to your mechanic about it, u never know, thats what forums are for, to share the wealth of information out there.

Ok just had a quick chat to him...

Judging from your 2nd post, it sounds like a Steering Wheel Sensor / Steering Angle Sensor (Same thing).

The Vehicle Speed Sensor... I think it is near the gear box or that area... But my mechanic he has never changed one cuz that sensor hardly plays up...

Also I remember him saying that if the Vehicle Speed Sensor is playing up, your speedo will not work / read the speed you are going, so you won't know how fast you are driving.

The HICAS light can relate to a few areas in the car,

Power Steering Sensor, to check your Power Steering Fluid.

Steering Wheel Sensor / Steering Angle Sensor.

Wheel Alignment, car is not driving straight.

Just get your mechanic to re diagnose the HICAS and see how you go...

:yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...