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Adding A T To My De

blk032

By blk032,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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blk032 Apprentice

blk032

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey folks,

I have a 89 r32 skyline with an rb20de in it, which i picked up pretty cheap as a daily to get to and from uni.

Anyway, recently I've been thinking about adding a turbo to spice things up a bit. I've done a bit of looking around and found you can get a lot of rb20det parts cheaply and it seems i can do a lot of it from home.

I've got quite a few questions, so any help will be really appreciated!

I'm thinking i'll go with an rb25 turbo on a stock rb20 manifold, how do i go about the oil lines, do i have to get a turbo sump or will my stock one be fine? also will i need to get a turbo intake with new injectors? And what about the diff? is it fine to keep the ratio as is or will i have to get a turbo silvia diff? (as the non-turbo skylines are 6 bolt)

Also will a rb20det ecu just plug in and be fine?

is there any major issues with doing this type of conversion?

Yes some of the questions may be noobish, but just trying to get some info. If any body has any links or stuff on how to go about it, that would be great too.

Thanks in advance

Edited by blk032
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289052-adding-a-t-to-my-de/
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PandaR33 Enthusiast

PandaR33

Posted
Posted

check my thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Idea-t288775.html also http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...lin-t69998.html

as for diff, should be fine. ratio wouldnt really matter, turbo isnt going to make a difference to that. you can use your sump but you will have to drill and tapp a hole for the oil retern. the other holes should (might not) have the oil and water points allready they will just be pluged up. not sure if the r33 turbo will have the oil and water in the same spot so you might have to run braded lines.

you will need injectors and a fuel pump. (no point starving your motor) allso a cooler and exhaust. you inlet manifold will be fine. though you will ether need to get the stock metal inlet pipe (the one that runs across the rocker covers) or do some pi** farting around with cooler piping.

you will want to run a pod filter and a cold air intake.

I havent heard of anyone running a turbo on stock intenals from a n/a so you should probably keep it low boot, like 7ish psi.

you could run the 20det computer but im fairly posative you will have to run a new wiering loom for it. but to really get some profomance you should atleast run a piggy back system like emeanage or safc. perferably if you have a manual a powerFC.

as for any major issues, there is allways a rick when your running a turbo on a high comp moter. so a fairly big one would be blowing your motor. thats why you want to keep the boost low. i had a mate who dicided to push 25psi out of his 31 and quikly sent a con-rod straight through the block.

hope i helped panda.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

There's a number of us that do/have run it on stock internals. In fact I'm pretty sure I've only seen one (that's posted in the N/A+t Power Results Thread) that has changed internals, and even then it was only really bearings and head gasket.

The biggest issues you will have really is the transmission not coping if you give it decent power and a lot of it, if you absolutely flog it all the time (like any car it won't like it), and probably an even bigger problem... wanting more power and limiting one's self with adding more power, cause as we all know it's very easy to just add more power with a turbo.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted (edited)

i've had a few tuners tell me they wouldn't recommend that. Yes you'll run more boost with lower compression, but you still have DE pistons which have different heat properties etc.. and it defeats the purpose of a DE+t which is very responsive.

I don't believe you'll need a new AFM unless you make it past the limits of the stock one, in which case you would go MAP Sensor or Z32 AFM. I don't know if there's any difference between an R32 RB20DE AFM and the R33/34 RB25DE ones, but in the case of the RB25DE AFM's they're fine for this sort of thing till you start pushing past 200rwkw.

Edit: I'm not actually entirely sure what the precise limit is of the stock AFM, but from what I see it seems that after 200 odd, you start looking at a Z32 or MAP? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, it's late and I'm in need of sleep lol

Edited by N-DAWG

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