Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my water pump was leakin for a while, got pretty bad at one stage so i decided id replace the seal. Anyway taken everything off, undone all the bolts i 'THOUGHT' were holding the water pump on and tried to take it off. Wouldn't budge! I took more of the cam belt covers off and realised that the water pump goes right across the block and was like shit im gonna have to take the cam belt off.

I haven't taken the cam belt off yet as i am too scared of putting the timing out, can anyone give me some hints as to the best ways of keeping it all set?

and whats the best method to find piston #1's TDC on the compression stroke, without taking the rocker cover off and literally looking?

and can some body suggest a method of removing the crank pulleys?

please help... i need to get the car back on the road

Having taken your cambelt covers off you will now see that there are three markers on the backing plates, two on the top and one down the bottom. The top two will line up with the two cam gears, which also have a marker on them, and the bottom one lines up with the crank timing pulley. Now your belt should also have three markers on it…all these marks should line up!!

Just stick a socket on the crank pulley and turn it until all these line up…. might take a few turns. Once this is done and all then markers line up you should be set.

To undo the crank pulley I used an impact wrench and then a pulley puller to get it off. Then just undo the belt tensioner and the belt will come off.

Hope this helps

thanks that makes a bit more sense, i have noticed the marks on the pulleys, not on the backing plates, however i will check, have not got bottom pulley cover off yet but will try your method

i noticed on my belt that the markings on it are not lined up with the markings on the belt, i imagine that if the belt was put on correctly this wouldn't matter though.

thanks

The markings on the backing plates are there just give it a bit of a clean.

You will need to take the bottom cover off, as you wont be able to get the belt off.

Do you mean that the markings on the belt aren’t lined up with the marking on the gears and the other marks?? To get these to line up its takes quite a lot of turns of the crank pulley.

If you don’t want to go through the whole process of adjusting everything so the markers meet up, just make your own markers on the belt the pulleys and the backing plates and then put in back on using your marks, but the first way would be the better way off doing it.

Guest MFX_R33
if u do a search u will find i have  posted all this info up before, step by step guides

You will also need a Harmonic balance puller, to get it off, as from memory a couple of the water pump bolts are behind it (it is a pain in the ass job :P.

Also be careful with just replacing the seal, as I did that and after putting it all back together, it was still leaking. I found the water was actually coming from a hole in the bottom of the water pump, which meant the pump was stuffed.

While you are doing it you mat as well just buy another water pump (a standard RB30 one is the same), for $90 it is better than having to pull it apart again when you are finished.

Jeff.

Thanks guys, i have taken everything off except the belt and pump now, thanks to your advice. i have ordered a new pump and belt, and await their arrival, hopefully they get here by the weekend.

Last question? where is the markings on the crank?

once u take the bottom pulley off u'll see the marl on the gear , make sure u line that up with the mark on the housing there and the cam pulley marks should line up .

tensioner bolt shoulb be done with a torque rench as well and make sure u put the sping bake the way it was there before

there is only 1 tensioner and 1 idler pulley , u have to take the tensioner off ( its easier to remove the belt ) . when u put back together ( tensioner and spring ) make sure u put everything back the way they were in there before . if u do a search u'll find an old post ( i put up a while ago )on how they go back .

just make sure the marks on ur cam gears and the crank are in line with the marks on the backing plate. make sure the marks a perfectly inline then slip the belt on without disrupting the marks.

then mark the belt in three places to match up with the marks on the gears, just to be sure double check the marks again match up with the backing plate.

just out of curiosity how much did the belt cost u?(i used to work for a company that supplied gates belts)

have u also purchased the rest of the belts? a/c, p/s, alt belts? how much and are they gates too?

well i got sent a gates belt from Unique autosport, it was too wide and too long invoice said RB25DET, that was $95 plus postage plus week to get here(overnight my ass) i ended up going to PABs 10min drive and getting a gates one for $135 (expensive, but worked out the same as the one from unique with postage) and it actually fitted

sadly my block is crack and unrepairable, so i am going to have to source one and rebuild it, weighing up my options for an RB30DET conversion

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...