Shogun, From Stock To Extreme

[shogun!]

Some funny christmas candles of grade 8.

[lawler]

May I ask why did you go iridiun and also why did you go 8's?

I was just wondering because from every thing ive seen you are better of running normal plugs and replacing then every 10k or so due to the fact they have a better burn under high load and it works out cheaper

Edited December 2, 2009 by lawler

[shogun!]

May I ask why did you go iridiun and also why did you go 8's?

I was just wondering because from every thing ive seen you are better of running normal plugs and replacing then every 10k or so due to the fact they have a better burn under high load and it works out cheaper

I chose them because they quickly transport away the heat (they stay cooler) and that reduce the knocking (spontaneous explosions). I have run 6 and 7 graded plugs and going up to 7 made a good improvement. The more power the colder plug.

An ultra-fine (0.6mm) center electrode reducing the voltage requirement for spark. This allows for a brighter, stronger spark from existing ignition system. The ground electrode has a tapered cut at the firing end which reduces quenching for better flame core growth and increased ignitability.

They are not too expensive. So changing them every one or two years is OK with me.

The extreme top fuel machines go as high as 9-10 with lots of exotic material on the tips. That suit their engines quite well but for a modest +700 hp machine like mine, it is enough with grade 8 and the "standard" Iridium IX.

[shogun!]

Slightly modified plans. Will go for dual Tial with a bit of my own touch

[lawler]

Oh I probably should have read through a bit more of your thread before I asked about the temp rating I didn't know you were aiming for that sort of power so I was thinking 7 would have been better.

[shogun!]

Thats cool matey. The 7's are also very good.

Completed the gauge installation with a couple of useful meters from Autometer.

[shogun!]

Don't feed the animal

[shogun!]

Some additional chassis parts to lift handling one more step

[NA_Goodness]

Where did you get the tie-rod ends? I'm looking for some for my R33.

[shogun!]

Where did you get the tie-rod ends? I'm looking for some for my R33.

I bought them from SPL

http://www.splparts.com/main4/index.htm

[lawler]

Hey man thats some sweet looking suspention parts you have there

[NA_Goodness]

Cheers mate, I'll go check it out. Cars looking good!

[shogun!]

The digital climate control DCC with power on.

[GTScotT]

great build mate, will be great to see how the CA goes

[shogun!]

Some Christmas gifts

[shogun!]

[shogun!]

This is how to change the wheel studs to longer ones (not my car on some pictures)

Remove the wheels

Remove the bolts on the backside of the brake caliper (socket 17) and hang it up with a bit of wire.

Remove the center cover on the wheel hub with a flat screwdriver.

Remove the lock pin (replace with a new one)

Use a pair of flat pliers, squeeze the legs together and press out the pin

Remove the centre nut (socket 32). The wheel hub will start rotating, use a long bar or equal between the floor and the wheel studs to hold the wheel hub in place.

When the nut is removed, take out the washer placed behind it and pull off the wheel hub

Press the old studs out. If you dont have a wise or equal, you can hammer them out.

Please try to avoid using to much force when smacking them out, every blow will make small dimples inside the bearings. If you use a small sledge hammer One firm blow is better than multiple smaller ones. Support from behind is good to save the bearings.

Place the new longer studs in correct position (splines). Carefully knock them in a bit. Important that the splines are correctly alligned. Use a larger socket and a wheel nut and tighten till the stud is firmly seated towards the back of the hub..

Clean all surfaces and put new grease on the bearing surfaces. If you plan to use larger brake discs in the future, it is a good idea to remove the splash guard behinf the brake disc before you remount the disc.

Remount the washer, nut and locking pin. Assemble brake disc and spacer.

Remount the brake caliper

Mount the wheels and enjoy the wider stance

This is the result on my car (no spacers mounted yet and Camber not adjusted). This is also before the wider fenders are mounted.

I use a 5-stud wheel hub with pin studs. Make life much easier

Longer studs

Front

Rear

[shogun!]

Ooops!

A late New Years gift turned up aswell :eek:

[shogun!]

A small but important upgrade

[shogun!]

I do not want to mess around with lots of hard to reach screws and nuts so I looked around to find a good solution.

Thanks to Creatix I managed to lay my hands on a bunch of really good Stainless Steel V-band clamps and flanges. They make life so much easier eliminating the hassle with aligning bolted flanges. Easy to mount and dismantle.

I will use them on the exhaust system, the down pipe, the front pipe, the two wastegates and on the turbon