Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey im selling my prelude, reason is because im looking for some boost, preffered a r32.

open to swaps and offers

1991 honda prelude si-vtec jdm import model (it is quite a rare model in australia)

comes with a few jdm goodies like the slim rain visors, rear wiper, climate control one peice headlights and electric folding mirrors.

engine: H22A v-tec motor, complete x-force exhaust system, short ram intake , k&n air filter, m2b4 lsd.

suspension/handling: KYB sport gas shocks , king springs, cusco front upper strut bar, generic rear upper strut bar, 17" apec apache wheels , lexani n3000 tyres.

audio: JVC double din dvd head unit, 08 model jbl splits in the front, latest fusion powerplant splits in the rear, jbl 600watt rms dual mono amp running the latest fusion powerplant dual voice coil 600watt rms sub

body: aftermarket front bar, aftermarket side skirts (you will not find on any website, i happened to find some one selling and alot of people have said they have never seen them before), clear side indicators

it has around 165 000 ks on it, never been in an accident, recently had major service done including , timing belt , auto tensioner (hydrolic tensioner), crank seal, water pump , sump seal , oil & filter , engine flush, radiator flush.

interior is immaculate, completely stock. with oem jdm floor mates

any questions just ask

looking for $12,000 negotiable, open to swaps and offers.

will take $10,500 with out sound system

will upload more pictures when i take some.

driving.jpg

Image033.jpg

Image034.jpg

Image035.jpg

Edited by d_soljah
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290124-fs-honda-prelude/
Share on other sites

also forgot to add, it comes with 2x stock front bars, the one which came with the car, and one i picked up for $20 to mess around with if wanted, stock air intake, stock side skirts and a few little bits which probably wont matter.

looking for an r32, manual , turbo willing to swap for the right one, or throw me some offers

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...