Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

The time has come to get rid of my Focus as I am fast realising with the 33 in the driveway I am never going to drive it...

Great reliable car if you are looking for something economical and safe.

Model: 2007 (reg. Sept) Ford Focus LT CL

Colour: Black Sapphire (metallic)

Body type: 4 door Hatch

K's: 30,684

Transmission: Automatic (tiptronic/sports mode)

Engine: 2.0L/ 4 cyl

CD player, Aux Input Socket, front power windows, power steering, central locking, wheel covers (factory). Adjustable Steering Column - Tilt & Reach.

Safety features: Dual front airbags and Anti-lock Braking System, Electronic Brakeforce Distribution,

Factory optional "Safety Pack"- side airbags, curtain airbags, Dynamic Stability Control and Traction Control

Balance of 3yr manufacturers warranty with option to upgrade to 5yr/100k km.

11 months rego to Sept 12th 2010.

Very tidy, always garaged, serviced regularly. Clean inside and out. Not interested in trade as I have my 33 love already... Please PM me for inspection/more info if required.

$19,500

post-67340-1255969248_thumb.jpg

post-67340-1255969371_thumb.jpg

post-67340-1255969391_thumb.jpg

post-67340-1255969405_thumb.jpg

post-67340-1255969418_thumb.jpg

Edited by skyline_chick
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292668-2007-ford-focus-lt-cl/
Share on other sites

Just an FYI, this car is currently financed under a secured loan, so how it works is as follows:

We rock up to Westpac, you with cashiers cheque/cash in hand.

Payment used to clear the loan

I take some change

You take the keys and the car

Westpac will take 48hrs to release security on the vehicle, at which point a REVs check will show a clear title and you will be able to transfer the rego into your own name.

I would prefer to do this in person with the buyer, at the bank, as I will know the payment is clear, and you will have the car and know I am not going to run off with the money leaving you $19,500 short with a car you cannot transfer into your own name. Of course if you do not wish to attend the bank that is up to you, I just feel it gives us both peace of mind. Please note if you wish to pay by personal cheque I will be keeping the keys and the car until the payment clears and the loan is closed.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...