Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Just put a deposit on a auto 98 r34 gt t but have some questions about the car. First off ive never owned a skyline so my knowledge is very limited. Anwyays the car im going to purchase has just been imported to Australia and is going to get complianced sometime next week. I was told that its no longer a plate and is now a sticker. Is this true?

Also being a fresh import is there anything i need to look out for? (i would be the first registered owner) Im a little concerned because im getting the car for very cheap. So something must be up unless his being honest and he needs the money desperately to get his other cars into oz.

A friend of mine said to call nissan and give them the vin number or model number cause some people are bolting on turbos to non turbos and selling them as turbos.

And finally if anyone has anything at all, even something simple they could share with me on what to look for on a R34 i would really appericiate it.

Thanks smile.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293347-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

Dunno about the sticker....it should be a plate still, stickers can be lost pretty easily.

Imports are cheap, but the importing costs like customs, rego, compliance, etc all add up.

You can enter the VIN or model number into software called Nissan FAST to see what setup it had at the factory, or ring Nissan with the engine number and see if it was a factory turbo. There's no harm in bolting on turbo's as long as no corner's are cut - its a pretty common conversion in almost any import.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293347-r34-gt-t/#findComment-4898271
Share on other sites

GOT IT, nevermind that, had to fiddle with the number:

VIN CODE: ER34

006543

MODEL:

GGKBRTAR34UDAAJJE

MODEL SERIES:

R34

PRODUCTION YEAR / MONTH:

98 / 06

COLOR CODE:

KV2

INTERIOR COLOR:

G

RB25DET

HICAS, RWD

25 GTT

2K (not sure what this means...in the same field, my Cefiro is reffered to as "S", others are SE-4, VL, etc)

AUTOMATIC, 4 SPEED

Edited by Nic_A31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293347-r34-gt-t/#findComment-4898395
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...