Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I live in the UK, driving an R33 GTS Facelift, with an RB20E engine in it.

I now know that I have the basic Skyline and tuning is poor, has anyone done any thing with a N/A GTS like mine?

Any pointers on Induction, Exhaust and those lovely 4-stud wheels.

Regards

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29510-r33-gts-rb20e/
Share on other sites

Hi Mark,

I had an R33 GTS (RB20E) for over 2 years. Great car, just lacked power (and the choice of aftermarket wheels was limited by the 4 studs...) As for tuning options, even here in Japan I had major hassle trying to find suitable parts. In the end I decided it was better economics (for me) to save my money towards a more tunable (or more powerful) car, but it all comes down to personal choice.

If you'd like to squeeze some extra horses out of the engine, a pod filter (Trust does one for the RB25DE which *should* fit the RB20E), exhaust (fujitsubo make one suitable, I think) and wheels (Rays CV europe in my case)...

Good luck!

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29510-r33-gts-rb20e/#findComment-602749
Share on other sites

air filter, headers + exhaust, some head porting, some cams + cam gears, aftermarket ECU

after all that, i dont think you would much more then a an RB25DE engine's power output, and would have stuff all drivability.

having said that, im sure a decent cat back and a pod will make the engine sound a whole lot more better and more enjoyable to drive.

wheels, the Jap brands make some very nice 4 stud wheels, but they are expensive. enkei's and vols are some that spring to mind

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29510-r33-gts-rb20e/#findComment-604058
Share on other sites

Dave, Nismodified,

Thanks for the Tips, will probably kep the old girl going for a few more years, as it owes me a bob or two. The filter and exhaust ideas sound a bit of fun. Will they improve initial lift off from 0-2000 rpm, as the car can shift when you wind it up, induces wheel spin at the drop of a hat, but seems flat below 3000rpm ?

Dave,

Seen your site it proves an interesting read, made feel I was not the only one to have bought an RB20E Skyline :Oops:

Regards

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29510-r33-gts-rb20e/#findComment-606914
Share on other sites

Mark,

Thanks for checking out my site. To be honest I do miss my old GTS, it was a rock solid car, never let me down and looked great. If I could have kept it along with my new car I would.

Regarding power/torque below 3,000RPM - you've got to be careful when choosing an aftermarket exhaust - get something too big, you'll lose a lot of back pressure and you're low end power/torque is gonna get worse, not better.

as an example, look at this power graph for a Fujitsubo Legalis R exhaust - notice bottom end power and torque are way, way lower for the aftermarket exhaust than the std one...

LegalisR_torque.jpg

Their super R shows an improvement, but you're not really gaining much below 3K RPM:

LegalisSuperR_torque.jpg

Just saying, choose an aftermarket exhaust carefully and make sure it's specifically designed for an N/A car.

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29510-r33-gts-rb20e/#findComment-607039
Share on other sites

Dave,

I will check out the exhaust aspect carefully as you suggest, will also look at UK distibution for the Japanese exhauts.

I see from your site you have the R34 GTV, how much extra do we pay in the UK through importers and dealers for Skylines ?

I would like to upgrade as you have, but having paid more than I feel I should, am a little wary.

Is it worth waiting for the R34 range to come into price range or get an older R32 GTR, would value your advice.

Regards

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29510-r33-gts-rb20e/#findComment-608343
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...