Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This isn't really quite the right forum for this question.

Pictured is the bottom (sump removed) of an N1 block with R34 crank, when last in motion, it had no oil pressure.

how it got that way is an interesting story I can type if anyone is curious. I've posted months ago on it, but basically

it involved getting ones timing belt changed at a "tuning shop" in sydney.

My questions are the following..

* see the shiny triangles ground off the crank, what are they?

* see the oil pump cog, and snout? the snout is damaged and there is molten and solidified metal blobs in the area. The stock damper has a crack in its inner most sleeve as well, I believe that perhaps this whole thing will be difficult to remove (I'd like to look inside this pump to see the undoubtedly fractured gear) How do I remove it?

* the bores are perfect, the piston tops perfect, where will I see bearing damage (for my own curiosity)? or where to look for any other damage? remove any pair of bolts pictured and look at the crank or the bearing sleeves?

* how do you turn the crank when the block is like this on a stand or whatever

* how do I keep this in good shape if I want to wait a while. do I clean off the oil and dry out the water jacket somehow?

I said they were basic questions!

ultimately I'd be sending this away to get refreshed, but I'm kind of interested in doing some of it myself.

Anyone got a brief description of what I would do?

for example: remove oil pump and free up crank, remove crank and send it away to get checked or re-machined, Buy new pump & bearings, and re-assemble and torque the bolts correctly and with the correct tools.

post-51561-1257819164_thumb.jpg

post-51561-1257819177_thumb.jpg

post-51561-1257819193_thumb.jpg

the triangles you mention inthe first picture have been machined, either for clearance or balancing reasons

the 2nd and 3rd picture shows the snout has been chewed up, repair to cost of a new/2nd hand crank, well id sugest to buy a new or 2nd hand crank

turn while on engine stand use a socket (usually 27mm) on the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer onto the snout, only turn clockwise

crank is throw away. Look for a replacement but in all honesty i have bought 6 2nd cRB26 ranks over the years and all but 2 were no good.

Edited by URAS
  • 5 weeks later...

do not clean off oil if u plan on storing it for awhile. oil will prevent corrosion.

crank is rooted, get another one

take off the two nuts at the end of each conrod, pull the cap off and look at the bearings. make sure u dont mix up nuts or the conrod caps between one another. and note the way they come off becoz they only go back on one way.

im guessing they didnt do a good job with the timing belt. what workshop was it?>

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so will run the piping over that radiator and no plenum it is. Put that money towards a Haltech and see what suits. Any ideas something like an elite 2000 or 2500 right? My long term goal is 300kw e85 and manual swap and that’s a dream come true. For now will be 200kw and auto the stock rb25det neo intake isn’t too expensive with throttle body. If I was to have the port matching done, Would that be better than the stock de intake as the det has bigger holes plus has the spots for sensors etc? And suit more long term?  appreciate the advice?   
    • You understand AFR is not the only thing that contributes to it pinging yeah? Funnily, what the AFR gauge will tell you when it likely is pinging, is going to make you think things are really safe and good.
    • Run the piping how we all have for decades. Also the duel runners with the +T setup dramatically helps it gets on boost quicker. Yes, chase huge power it'll become a problem, but you're a long way off when you're already saying an aftermarket ECU is out of the budget. You also say NisTune as it's simple, and then immediately say it'll be painful, meaning... It won't be simple. It will likely cost you a lot more stuffing around with a Nistune, than just putting a Haltech or similar in.
    • I’ll order an afr gauge to keep an eye on it.  Then will get a haltech soon 
    • TD05 or maybe pulsar PSR2867r Gen 2?  id love a garret but it’s quite out the budget for now and I’m not chasing crazy power.    yeh fuel pump haven’t looked into but whatever works, kind of last on my list.    Nistune because it’s simple but Ik it’s a lot of pain especially as I’m auto +t with the whole seperate TCM etc still investigating that. Haltech id love but once budget tight for now atleast.    finally the reason I’m trying for a plenum instead of the stock intake is I already have a standard Intercooler mounted etc. so the ports are on both sides so trying to not have to go over the clutch fan radiator etc. trying to find a good deal return flow if I don’t than this will do for now I guess. btw any ideas with that, apparently some people have to cut blades to reduce it from hitting the Intercooler piping over the radiator ? Thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...