Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am about to purchase a whiteline handling pack

it comes with front and rear adjustable sway bars,

front castor kit and rear camber kit.

my question is which bushes r included in the handling pack, from my understanding the sway bars come with bushes

are there any other bushes that i should replace while the skyline is out of action?

has anyone fitted one of these kits to their skyline by themselves (i have 93 r33 gts-t)

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29569-whiteline-handling-pack/
Share on other sites

I've got the Whiteline swaybars and bushes. They give you new bushes and linkage arms for the rear, and new mounting bushes for the front, but for the front you need to re-use the original linkage arms and bushes to connect them to the suspension arm.

The other bushes are rear suspension arm bushes to reduce camber, and new front castor rod bushes to increase castor.

The fronts are pretty easy to do, just take the radius rods out and take them to a suspension workshop to press the old bushes out and press the new ones in (cost around $20) and then just put them back in the car and get a wheel alignment done.

The rears I haven't tackled yet because it looks a lot more complicated. I think there are 4 bushes per side that need to be pressed out, but you have to remove the whole suspension arms to do it. Once they are out it shouldn't be too hard to get them pressed out and in like the radius rods.

Are you talking about the castor and rear camber bushes only? If so then I would get them. I've yet to put my rear camber bushes in but I know it'll improve rear traction when I put them in.

The castor bushes improve the feel of the steering, it will make the steering a bit heavier but it will feel a lot more solid, like you can more easily point the car in the exact direction you want to go. More like a racing car feel :)

If you mean other bushes (sorry I'm not up to speed on what's in the current kit) then I can't say because I don't have any others. I imagine a front camber kit may be useful, not as useful as the rear though because there's no power to my front wheels. May be more useful on a GTR but even then you're not using the front wheels constantly for power.

I have had the handling pack on an R33 GTSt before and it is great ( car had standard ride height, wheels and dampers and springs), and it transformed it. I got it installed on seperate days, and I can tell you the swaybars made the most dramatic difference, particularly the rear one. I believe the castor, camber kits may come into their own if the car is lowered, but I didnt notice must of a difference on my standard ride height car. Maybe look at getting pineapples (whiteline call them KCA???) at the same time as they arent very expensive.

Paid $700ish and $150 labour (included alignment) 18 months ago from Tru Track in North Melbourne, would highly recommend them. Ask for Ralph, he is a funny bloke.

The camber kit is only for if you lower the car. At the standard height the camber is correct. I would say that installing the camber kit without lowering it would be detrimental to handling.

Hi guys, the front and rear camber kits are adjustable, so you can set them wherever you want. So it doesn't matter whether the car is lowered or not, you can both add or subtract camber.

Hi rs73, the standard shocks are "already pretty good" but you are changing them. What makes you think that the swaybars are different?

I absolutely guarantee you that a Skyline with standard springs and properly adjusted stabiliser bars will out handle a Skyline with upgraded lowered springs and standard stabiliser bars. Every time.

Hi rs73, the standard shocks are "already pretty good" but you are changing them.  What makes you think that the swaybars are different?

I absolutely guarantee you that a Skyline with standard springs and properly adjusted stabiliser bars will out handle a Skyline with upgraded lowered springs and standard stabiliser bars.  Every time.

Hm, I think you might be right... I talked to whiteline and the guy there recommended that I actually start with the stabiliser bars front & rear first.

Maybe I got it wrong the other way around when was told to change the shocks only not the bar....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...