Jump to content
SAU Community

Trickle Charging An R33

W1ngnut

By W1ngnut,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

W1ngnut Proficient

W1ngnut

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I was just after a quick answer of something along the lines of, "yes, it will be fine" or a "you idiot, how could you think of doing that"...

I have a C-Tek charger to charge up my R33 while it sits at home. I usually connect it straight to the battery in the boot, but I was curious on whether I could get away with just connecting it to the terminals in the drivers side engine bay where you Jump Start the car from?

Will it charge the battery correctly through the engine bay posts? Will it cause any damage to anything else electrical?

Cheers

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297501-trickle-charging-an-r33/
Share on other sites
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

Its fine in the engine bay, there was a DIY of hooking one up permanently so you just connect the plugs when you want it to charge.

I personally use a solar charging system with a panel mounted on the roof of the shed, costs a bit up front but thats where the costs stop.

W1ngnut Proficient

W1ngnut

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Its fine in the engine bay, there was a DIY of hooking one up permanently so you just connect the plugs when you want it to charge.

I personally use a solar charging system with a panel mounted on the roof of the shed, costs a bit up front but thats where the costs stop.

Thanks Craved,

I did read a thread about permanently installing one, which is what I was thinking, but the C-Teks flylead with the O-ring Terminal ends seemed to short to permanent mount behind the plastic cover in the boot, so i was thinking about a more front engine bay permanent install.

At least I know it will charge through the front then, I wasn't sure if the front terminals for jumping just supplied extra power to the starter motor instead of connecting all the way back to the battery in the boot.

JD_R33 Proficient

JD_R33

Posted
Posted

Sam,

I have a Jaycar auto trickle charger which connects to the engine bay fusebox and seems to charge my R33 just fine. It came with a flylead with O ring terminals that go on the +/- fusebox jumpstart points, and a plug on the other end to connect it to the charger.

The flylead is just long enough to reach out the front over the drivers side headlight so the bonnet could be closed with it in place, but I tend to leave the bonnet popped so I don't accidentally forget it's connected and drive off with the charger dragging along behind me.

I figure if those terminals are good enough to jumpstart the car, they're good enough to trickle charge the battery.

Cheers,

JD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...