Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, currently I've organise a HID and Power LED group buy!! Group buy Starts today and will end on the 31st December.

  • 7000K available
  • SUPER SLIM BLACK BALLAST
  • Slim and Black Ballast for easy install and hide away in the engine bay
  • Every HID kit will Come with FREE pair of ENON Power LED

HID first introduced on luxury cars. After HID conversion kits had come to the market, it made HID system continued to grow in popularity. Because of high quality at an affordable price, the enon HID kit is simply the most competitive in the market. For our enon HID package, it uses high quality Xenon bulbs and ballasts. It is very easy install for your specific vehicle applications. So why don't you convert to HID now?

hid_enon-h1.gif

hid_bulb-h1.jpg

hid_enon-h4hilo.gif

hid_bulb-h4hilo.jpg

hid_enon-h11.gif

hid_bulb-h11.jpg

hid_enon-h7.gif

hid_bulb-h7.jpg

hid_enon-9006.gif

hid_bulb-9006.jpg

SAU menber price

$179 for all single beam kit

$219 for H4 Hi/ LO beam kit

Super white Power LED

$12.5 each pair OR $20 for 2 pair

all with 4 x Power LED on top of each little bulb

DSC05900.jpg

SUPER WHITE Power LED below

DSC02705.jpg

Edited by sunline08
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297776-new-enon-super-slim-hid-power-led/
Share on other sites

As you have missed several key information items...

When you are ready to create a thread inline with forum rules which can be found here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Th...Gro-t81129.html

Please repost your thread will the FULL information.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...