Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I was wondering if you might be able to help me out with some info, I am looking to buy a R31 Skyline 6 cylinder, a friend has one forsale and it has a LSD Diff and extractors, and it has a auto box. I wouldant mind making a bit of a project out of it and I was wondering what the 6 cylinder engine would be like to upgrade? I understand they run a RB30 which is the same as the RB30 in the VL and maybe in the future I could run the same turbo kit?

As far as the Auto is concerned will I still be able to get fairly good performance from the auto or am I wasteing my time? I am limited to a auto until I get off my P's Which brings me to my last question which is would it be possible to convert it from a auto to a manual with out too much trouble?

Thanks

Andy

I made the mistake of passing my test in a auto.. :D got to wait until I get on my greens before I can drive a manual, so im trying to find half a decent car on a budget :)

What state are you in?

Does this "driving manual on green 's with auto license" appky in VIC?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't remember the last time I saw a good, healthy battery dropping into the 9s during cranking,  Too many variables to say anything about it with any certainty though.  A float voltage of 12-12.2 is tired AF and given how AGMs handle high C rate and DOD, will just die faster and faster with each cold start.   
    • I find most vehicles dip into the mid to high 9 volt range, even with a good battery. Hitting the low 9s, and especially hitting into the 8s is pretty indicative of a dieing battery. The other part to look at is the battery voltage after the battery has been fully charged. They should be sitting at 12.8V, as lead acids are dieing, they head down low and lower. Often getting as low as 12.0 - 12.2. You'll start seeing this when the engine is cranking over slowly. Interestingly, depending on the vehicle, when batteries get really bad, you can see some REALLY funky things going on. From very low voltages, to higher than 16V too. Something I totally didn't expect! This part of the super low and super high voltages I've been seeing on motorbikes, I need to do some further studies on cars. I suspect cars will act a little bit different though for a couple of reasons.
    • Thanks! Supercheap has a sale on this weekend so might be a good opportunity to get a new one. I do have a decent multimeter so I'll give it a try either way.   Hah, you got me! I do not. All I know is that the battery holds charge and sits at an okay level before I start the car. Doing the full charge and rejuvenation cycle on a trickle-charger seems to not really make a difference to the cold start behaviour. I'll try and measure it during cranking and see what it does. It's likely terrible; it certainly feels terrible.  I'll be happy if it is really just the battery and I don't have to dick around with the alternator or starter motor.
    • how do you know voltage is fine?  quick easy test is connect DMM up and put it on max/min mode, remove fuel pump fuse, crank car for 3-5s, go check min voltage You'd be surprised how many "healthy" batteries are showing under 10v during this test in cold weather. 
    • Not properly. You need to be able to dissipate 100 amps or so to doing it meaningfully. You can do it indirectly by watching to see how far the voltage falls during cranking. Unplug the coils or something else to prevent it from starting so you can get a good couple or three chugs. It also helps if you have the multimeter set up reading before you start, and that it has max/min functions. So you can catch the real minimum without having to watch the screen, which often doesn't update fast enough to show the real max/min in dynamic situations. Or use a digital oscilloscope, which can be obtained for <<$100 from Aliexpress (although I'd argue for paying up to ~$200 for a nicer one). A >4 yr old battery will very likely be well down the path to the knackery. Many only last 5-6 years these days. The cold weather lately will definitely make it worse.
×
×
  • Create New...