Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi i am international student in australia

i am looking to buy a R34 25 GT

and have a question about finance, insurance,services

i am internatinal student can i get finanace on the car worth 12k~18k AUS $?

if there is someone like me done this before how much u pay for 2 year term and the interest?

How much to insurance the car and which is the best should i take as AAMI won`t insure it

I have Australian full driving license for 2 months now

There any services place near South western melbourne that done service like oil change filter etc for car

at least kind of same one with nissan done

Thx anything you know might help me

Cheers

Edited by mrchocolate
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300049-buying-r34-for-internatinal-student/
Share on other sites

Hey mate...I suggest you contact the following places directly for more information...

- Finance companies and banks for FINANCE.

In general, if you are an international student, a bank would have provisions to loan you money, e.g. you have assets up to a certain amount or can prove that you can have good income/cash flow and/or you meet their residency requirements. Best that you talk to them directly.

- Insurance companies to INSURE the car.

The only two insurers that I know that will definitely insure Japanese imports are www.justcars.com.au and www.shannons.com.au , give them a call and ask for specific details. I don't see why they cannot insure your car.

- Local Mechanics to SERVICE the car.

There are many places that can service your car. I suggest you go somewhere local. Ask around and get some quotes. Otherwise, if you are near the Western suburbs of Melbourne, I suggest you perhaps give Chasers Motorworks ago - I am a regular there, just say Kevin with the R33 GTR sent you. They recently tuned my car so I'm sure they will give you a hand. Visit their website here: www.chasers.com.au .

Good luck.

I'm not sure if they would give an international student a loan, especially to buy a car that's pretty hard to sell off.

But think about it, do you really want to be servicing a loan as you study? Are you using your allowance or are you working? If you're working, why not save up for the car? I'm sure you can wait and it is going to be a much sweeter sensation, rather than having to service the loan, then paying for maintenance and whatnot. Its all going to add up.

Just cars is probably the way to go, looking at $2500 - $3000 for first year of insurance if you want full comp.

As for finance you need a full-time or part-time job, they won't give you a loan if you're a casual. Not sure if they'll give you a loan because you're on a student visa :S. Just contact a bank.

Mate iam pretty sure international students dont get any sort of finance or loans even if u are working full time or part time (legaly international students are allowed 20 hrs of work a week only).as i was an international student til last year i asked around and no one was willing to gve me a loan or a finance on a car.the best would b if u can save up and buy it for cash like i did :thumbsup:.believe me mate even if u arange the loan some how,repayments and maintainance on the car would b 2 hard to juggle.geting any sort of loans while ur a student NOT A SMART MOVE.

Thanks for all the info

Maybe I should save for my car, damm it will takes year maybe more .........

U know it better have it now than watch other skyline in the street

Btw thx for the info i got quoted $1.400 per year for full insurance with just car on agrred value 17K AUS$

Does anyone get better deal than this?

Rating 3 (Don`t know what it means)

More important that i will drive alot

How much cunsumtion for skyline R34 25GT?

per tank or Km/liters

And a info from my friend say that skyline driver got pull over alot by police?

that would be annoying

You won't get cheaper than Just Cars in your situation. Yes imports get hassled a bit more by the police, but in saying that I've never been pulled over. A lot of it comes down to how you drive and your driving record. Rating 3 is based on how many years you've been driving and how many claims you have. You start off on a Rating 6 and it gets better from there. Fuel consumption is pretty crappy, much like any other 6cyl.

I dont think shannons will insure you if you are under 25

i'm 23 and have my GTR insured with shannons. about half the price of what just cars was asking - they are by far the best insurance company out there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...