Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys. today I ended up replacing the stock dump pipe with a 3inch stainless steel pipe. While I was in the process of removing the old pipe I accidentally snapped two of the 13mm bolts on the back of the turbo :D Thankfully It was the top two bolts so I should be able to squeeze my little pistol drill in there without removing the turbo. I was just wondering what size drill bit I'd be best off using to drill the snapped bolts out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301589-replaced-stock-dump-pipe/
Share on other sites

Ended up buying some screw extractors. I don't know if that's what an 'easy-out' is but they didn't work at all. I ended up snapping one but luckily managed to get it out of the hole i'd drilled. After getting fed up with trying to get the 2 snapped bolts out i made a few calls and ended up taking the turbo to Edsway Engineering over at coopers plains. I can't speak highly enough of the guy that works there. Not only was he on holidays and came in just for me but it only cost me $20 to extract the 2 bolts out and re-thread the holes. The addy is 20/248 musgrave rd, coopers plains for anyone interested. And is it just me or is it friggin hard to bolt the oil and coolant lines back to the turbo? I must of spent at least an hour trying to line everything up.

Ended up buying some screw extractors. I don't know if that's what an 'easy-out' is but they didn't work at all. I ended up snapping one but luckily managed to get it out of the hole i'd drilled. After getting fed up with trying to get the 2 snapped bolts out i made a few calls and ended up taking the turbo to Edsway Engineering over at coopers plains. I can't speak highly enough of the guy that works there. Not only was he on holidays and came in just for me but it only cost me $20 to extract the 2 bolts out and re-thread the holes. The addy is 20/248 musgrave rd, coopers plains for anyone interested. And is it just me or is it friggin hard to bolt the oil and coolant lines back to the turbo? I must of spent at least an hour trying to line everything up.

That totally blows

Thats pretty good for a business to do that.

I have "Rigid" brand screw extractors, never found a snapped bolt they couldn't remove, cost me a fortune for the set but they are worth it in the end of the day.

Best way to solve the problems with those oil lines? braided lines!

Yep the oil and water lines can be a bitch to put back on, hopefully you put thte copper washes back in to otherwise they will end up leaking if they already havent.Next time get some freeze spray in a can (and put it on first before you even undo any of the nuts) similar to inox/wd40 it freezes the bolt or stud so shrinking it slightly and to 'crack' (Not literally) the join, then it gets down into the thread to then act a a lube, its good guys only about $15 a can from auto places.

Hey I've just started up my car since putting the turbo back on and the new dump pipe and there seems to be a bit of steam/smoke coming from the turbo area. i got a new gasket for the turbo flange to dump pipe and just reused the gasket from the turbo to exhaust manifold as it seemed in good condition. I reconnected all the oil and water lines properly so im wondering where this smoke could be coming from? Im afraid to start it up again now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...