Jump to content
SAU Community

16" 17" 18", Lots And Lots Of Performance Tyres, Race And Street, Volk Rims, 3" Tailshaft To Suit Box Conversions


Recommended Posts

ALL THE PICTURES ARE HERE, PLEASE FOLLOW THE LINK HERE:

ALL THE PICTURES ARE HERE, PLEASE FOLLOW THE LINK HERE:

ALL THE PICTURES ARE HERE, PLEASE FOLLOW THE LINK HERE:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=420606

TE37 + SEMISLICK PACKAGE

TE37 + SEMISLICK PACKAGE

Only the best here. There aren't any scratches on them, gutter grazing has been machined off and now has a nice polished lipped finish to it, with proper semi slicks with good to very good tread remaining.

Fronts are 17x8.5" and offset is +30, wearing 225/45/17 yokohama ADVAN A048 semi slicks with ~80% tread left, check out the pics! and the rears are 17x9.5" and offset is +35, wearing 235/45/17 bridgestone RE55S semi slicks with ~50% tread left, check out the pics!

I store them in wheel and tyre bags, which all go in the garage. First in best dressed, happy to put them on hold if you're happy to put down a deposit. I'm in Sydney/Homebush and if you pay for shipping I will be happy to get quotes, organise a courier and package them, to any part of Australia.

That's about $5000 in wheels and tyres and I only want $3200negotiable for them :)

PRICE DROPPED: $3100

PRICE DROPPED: $3000

post-63710-1259550769_thumb.jpg

post-41282-1259550778_thumb.jpg

post-63710-1259550784_thumb.jpg

post-63710-1259550801_thumb.jpg

post-63710-1259550811_thumb.jpg

post-54283-1259996581_thumb.jpg

=============================================================

TYRES

TYRES

225/50/16, set of 4, falken azenis st115, ~40%

no nails, no pics yet

Price: $350

235/45/17, pair, Advan A046 ~50% (best tyres in the list IMHO)

no nails

Price: $170

PRICE DROPPED: $150

post-63710-1259550844_thumb.jpg

215/45/17, pair, Falken Zeix ~80%

has nail repairs, no pics

Price: $200

245/45/17, pair, Continental contisport II ~65%

has nail repairs

Price: $130

PRICE DROPPED: $100

post-63710-1259550830_thumb.jpg

235/40/18 Pirelli PZero CORSA semislicks, proper R-COMPOUND, 60 AA A

BRAND NEW never fitted as used on the most hardcore sports cars ever produced (Ferrari 360, Lamborghini Gallardo, Porsche GT2 & GT3, Aston Martin V12 Vantage, etc), made in Italy. Each one costs $600+, a set costs $2400+.

Price: $1550 brand new never fitted, no pics but it looks like this in my garage:

2912_11lo.jpg

=============================================================

I also have some spare tough plastic tyre/wheel protectors that are perfect for storing your tyres and wheels and equally as excellent for track days - no more dirty interior and no more wasting bed sheets... just throw them on and away you go! Very easy to put on and take off, it's elastic so it's a universal fit (let me know your tyre size and I'll try it on something I have to make sure it fits), and has a nice hole in the middle so you can actually hold onto your wheel/tyre easily unlike the fully-enclosed wheel bags.

Price: $10 each

post-41282-1259550490_thumb.jpg

=============================================================

3" one piece tailshaft

3" one piece tailshaft

length from tip to tip is 125cm, which was used with the s15/r33 powertune gearbox conversion kit, it's made from all new parts and servicable uni's. it fits z32, r33 and r34 gearboxes (FS5W30A)

Included in the price will be a FULL REBALANCE and if you want/need/like it can also be shortened to any length you require - so basically a brand new tailshaft for cheap.

This is because I have already paid for a rebalance, because it was thought that the tailshaft was causing a vibration. Because of the vibrations the car was hardly driven. I never got around to fixing it and it's now uninstalled and sitting in the garage.

A handy tip to know is that the flange on the sr20 diff is exactly the same as the flange on the 2nd half of a factory sr20 tailshaft, so if you'd like a 2-peice tailshaft for your gearbox conversion here's the perfect opportunity!

Price: $599 including full rebalance and shortening (if required)

Sydney/Homebush, can deliver anywhere.

post-41282-1259550624_thumb.jpg

post-47373-1259550701_thumb.jpg

=============================================================

Sydney/Homebush

Sydney/Homebush

Sydney/Homebush

Sydney/Homebush

Sydney/Homebush

ALL THE PICTURES ARE HERE, PLEASE FOLLOW THE LINK HERE:

ALL THE PICTURES ARE HERE, PLEASE FOLLOW THE LINK HERE:

ALL THE PICTURES ARE HERE, PLEASE FOLLOW THE LINK HERE:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=420606

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...