Jump to content
SAU Community

Yet Another 2nd Gear Grinding Issue

LexDelta
 Share

Recommended Posts

LexDelta Explorer

LexDelta

Posted
Posted

Well Im the proud owner of my first Skyline, a R33 GTS-t 2.5lt.

I haven't had it that long, but Ive come across my first issue, which is 2nd gear grinding, whether its from 1st>2nd or 3rd>2nd there is a considerable amount of grinding before the gear goes in. :(

It started happening yesterday when I was driving it home from work, I tryed changing down from 5th to 4th ato take a bend and 4th gear instantly grinded and wouldnt go in, after than I had trouble getting any gear in, so I slowed it right down and managed to get into 2nd with a little grind, then after that I could change back up the gears fine. But when I got to an intersection I changed down and when I got to 2nd it grinded again. Now it keeps grinding when I try to get into 2nd.

It does get there, but I really dont like driving it when this is happening, it feels like Im damaging it every time I have to go to 2nd. ;)

I took it out today to try double clutching it, and changing to 2nd at lower or higher rpms, but that didnt seem to help no matter what I did, altho by the end of my drive (~10mins) when the car was starting to warm up it seemed to improve slightly- much less crunch, but still bad.

Ive read a few threads here about the issue, so sorry for posting another, but Id like some more direct advice on what to do.

Ive heard of people replacing their spigot and thrust bearings, and some others replacing the gearbox oil, while even another person got thier ECU tuned and that fixed it.

Im just really hoping it wont be anything major, like a gearbox replacement or rebuild, because I really dont have the money or time for something that major right now...

Im getting the ECU re-tuned next week anyway, so I will have to speak to the mechanic about looking at the issue, but any advice or experiences you guys have would be appreciated so I can get a heads up. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305640-yet-another-2nd-gear-grinding-issue/
Share on other sites
Craig SLO33 Enthusiast

Craig SLO33

Posted
Posted
Well Im the proud owner of my first Skyline, a R33 GTS-t 2.5lt.

I haven't had it that long, but Ive come across my first issue, which is 2nd gear grinding, whether its from 1st>2nd or 3rd>2nd there is a considerable amount of grinding before the gear goes in. ;)

It started happening yesterday when I was driving it home from work, I tryed changing down from 5th to 4th ato take a bend and 4th gear instantly grinded and wouldnt go in, after than I had trouble getting any gear in, so I slowed it right down and managed to get into 2nd with a little grind, then after that I could change back up the gears fine. But when I got to an intersection I changed down and when I got to 2nd it grinded again. Now it keeps grinding when I try to get into 2nd.

It does get there, but I really dont like driving it when this is happening, it feels like Im damaging it every time I have to go to 2nd. :)

I took it out today to try double clutching it, and changing to 2nd at lower or higher rpms, but that didnt seem to help no matter what I did, altho by the end of my drive (~10mins) when the car was starting to warm up it seemed to improve slightly- much less crunch, but still bad.

Ive read a few threads here about the issue, so sorry for posting another, but Id like some more direct advice on what to do.

Ive heard of people replacing their spigot and thrust bearings, and some others replacing the gearbox oil, while even another person got thier ECU tuned and that fixed it.

Im just really hoping it wont be anything major, like a gearbox replacement or rebuild, because I really dont have the money or time for something that major right now...

Im getting the ECU re-tuned next week anyway, so I will have to speak to the mechanic about looking at the issue, but any advice or experiences you guys have would be appreciated so I can get a heads up. :cool:

sounds like it "could "be as simple asthe syncro's ,which help the gears engage smoothly, when shifting..id take it to a good gearbox specialist and get them to give it a look.If they know about skyline boxes it would be good.....

LexDelta Explorer

LexDelta

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sounds like it "could "be as simple asthe syncro's ,which help the gears engage smoothly, when shifting..id take it to a good gearbox specialist and get them to give it a look.If they know about skyline boxes it would be good.....

Yeh I phoned my mechanic (who specializes in skylines) and that was the first thing he said it could be...

He'll have a look at it before he retunes the ECU (no point doing that if the syncro's are out)

Any idea of the costs I may be up for to fix that? If it is the issue...

I know the guy who had it before me recently upgraded the clutch and while he was doing that got the main bearings fitted in the gearbox, along with a few other things. So it makes me wonder why this issue has happened so soon.

Craig SLO33 Enthusiast

Craig SLO33

Posted
Posted
Yeh I phoned my mechanic (who specializes in skylines) and that was the first thing he said it could be...

He'll have a look at it before he retunes the ECU (no point doing that if the syncro's are out)

Any idea of the costs I may be up for to fix that? If it is the issue...

I know the guy who had it before me recently upgraded the clutch and while he was doing that got the main bearings fitted in the gearbox, along with a few other things. So it makes me wonder why this issue has happened so soon.

Na sorry i have no idea on the cost to replace just the syncro's, I wonder why that pulled it down and replaced the b earings ,that sounds a little weird...Id "estimate" at least 800$ to 1500$,,but dont really no............l

LexDelta Explorer

LexDelta

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Na sorry i have no idea on the cost to replace just the syncro's, I wonder why that pulled it down and replaced the b earings ,that sounds a little weird...Id "estimate" at least 800$ to 1500$,,but dont really no............l

Shit ok, not quite the numbers I was hoping for, we'll see what happens.

LexDelta Explorer

LexDelta

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You said your clutch was recently changed? Maybe it is not fully disengaging and just needs adjusting?

Im hoping its something as simple as that, but if it was the clutch not fully disengaging then I would expect it to effect all gears, not just 2nd.

I have had a little trouble with 1st and reverse at times, but I put that down to my own error ;)

LexDelta Explorer

LexDelta

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sychro cone 128 each,,,,i am doing mine,,hopefully get it done next week,,,, :)

Thats not too bad I guess + manhours of course.

The clutch is rather heavy, pressing it all the way down the the floor engages it better and there is a bit less grind, but its still pretty bad.

Im hopefully getting mine done next week also, depending on what actually is wrong. :P

Ill post the results here (and amount of excessive money ill probubly have to pay to fix this)

tkong Contributor

tkong

Posted
Posted
Thats not too bad I guess + manhours of course.

The clutch is rather heavy, pressing it all the way down the the floor engages it better and there is a bit less grind, but its still pretty bad.

Im hopefully getting mine done next week also, depending on what actually is wrong. :)

Ill post the results here (and amount of excessive money ill probubly have to pay to fix this)

when i drained the oil,i found a broken clip on the sump plug, by the time i pull the box apart,i found the 3rd,4th sychromess assembly has no clips left,,,,weird,,,,,it took me two days to pull it apart(i have to make my own bearing puller,,,i have never seen such a tool before,,,)

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...