Jump to content
SAU Community

Thermo Fan Shrouds?

niran

By niran,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

niran Proficient

niran

Posted
Posted

hey every

i have my engineering appointment soon and im a bit worried as my clutch fan does not have a shroud around it as i have an aftermarket radiator. However i do have two electric thermo fans that i brought new a while back and been meaning to install. I've seen people use mounting shrouds if that's what you would call them so that the thermo fans have an gap between the radiator itself.

here is a picture so it explains it better.. does any one know where i can buy something like this locally.

post-44649-1265004036_thumb.jpg

thanks guys, niran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306376-thermo-fan-shrouds/
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

If you are keeping your stock engine fan then the thermos can go on the front of the radiator with no shroud. If you need a shroud for the engine fan then hit up some wreckers.

If you aren't keeping the stock engine fan, then the thermos go on the back side of the radiator but you won't find an off the shelf shroud to fit our radiators and those fans (if you do, let me know!).

I have heard that VG30 thermo setups and AU Falcon setups both fit and work with minimal effort.

niran Proficient

niran

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Easiest way is to make shrouds yourself - or go and see any shop that does custom work

Or, see KYP, etc to get a new (second hand) shroud for the clutch fan

Or, if you only need it for a little while, I could probably let you borrow mine (factory one)

hey buddy

thanks for that, i did what you said at the start, just made my own shroud looks good.. went to the engineering place they didn't say anything about it being a problem.

thanks, niran

  • 2 weeks later...
Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted (edited)

No, no pics.

Pretty straight forward though

use the factory shroud as a guide, or just off the rad dimensions, make up a frame from light ply, pine or Mdf

then cut same for the thermos

tack some speaker cloth to the rad frame and position the thermo fan templates - use a brick or pavers (or similar) to space the thermo frame up from the rad frame and then stretch and tack the cloth in place (not too tight)

then just lay several layers of fibre glass resin over the top, and you are done

Edited by Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...