Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Folks.

I have been looking at purchasing an M35 Nissan Stagea.

Now I have never owned an imported car, so I am treading carefully with the whole situation.

I have spoken to two guys there, and I have put a holding deposit (100% refundable) on a car that I like. I have seen numerous photos on their website, and got them to send me more recent ones also.

I'm going down this weekend to check the car out in person.

Now has anyone had any dealings with them (Good or Bad) or imported or purchased a car from them.

I spoke to them over the phone they were quite friendly, but they are car dealers, and they want my money so thats expected...

If anyone could give me an info that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309186-anyone-dealt-with-all-imports/
Share on other sites

I haven't dealt with them personally, but you may want to Google them - their name seems to appear a fair bit on other forums.

Yeah I had a quick look, but didn't find anything of any use.

do they also trade as topmotor imports?

I assume so, on one of their All Import ads it has a link to the topmotor website. So I guess they are in someway linked.

Is that a good or a bad thing lol

Oh ok.

hmmm, well I'm going there anyway as I have a 250 holding deposit on a car there.

If anything it to suss about them or the car, I'll just say "GIMME MY f**kING MONEY"

I'm just hoping they aren't some super chonky dealer.

I'm so sceptical about buying an imported car lol.

could be a good car man...my comment was based on reading and hearing about experiences from other ppl.

just go with the car don't get too caught up with the dealer although it helps if they are reputable....buyer beware like with any purchase.

Yeah, thats what I plan to do.

From all the images I've seen, it looks fine, and they have been friendly in communications both on phone and email, and have sent me numerous photos of the car inside and out at my request.

Fingers crossed, see how it is when I get there.

Edited by 3PointJ

I will ask just to be safe.

Judging from the photos the interior looks quite nice and tidy, and no obvious worn marks indicating that it may be more traveled than they claim. Having said that I'm not going to let that fool me.

I'll see how I go and let you guys know.

Edited by 3PointJ
Any chance of seeing an auction sheet showing the original km's?

Even though they are a digital display, the M35's can (and some have) had their odo wound back.

Well I spoke to them about the auction sheet (via email) and they claim that it was sold through an auction house.

Should that concern me?

Regardless, they've got 250 bucks of mine, so I'm going to be checking the car out, driving it etc.

If anything is out of the norm, I'll just get my money and go elsewhere. I've got another place in mind, just this car suits what I'm after.

Thanks for the help and info people

:cheers: That "other" place has some excellent Stageas and fantastic customer service, Chris.

hahahahah...

Anyway, we'll see what comes of everything tomorrow.

I might not even come back with a new car... :cool:

Well I spoke to them about the auction sheet (via email) and they claim that it was sold through an auction house.

Should that concern me?

Regardless, they've got 250 bucks of mine, so I'm going to be checking the car out, driving it etc.

If anything is out of the norm, I'll just get my money and go elsewhere. I've got another place in mind, just this car suits what I'm after.

Thanks for the help and info people

Get a scan of the export certificate emailed to you, shouldn't be too hard to tell...

Get a scan of the export certificate emailed to you, shouldn't be too hard to tell...

I have been to All Imports and have test driven a stagea not too long ago

from what i could tell the cars were priced quite good compared to others on the market. all the cars at All Imports had very low km which made me skeptical about authenticity so i made the choice not to buy from them. they could not supply me with any auction papers or log books to any of their imported cars.

whatever you do get a proper mechanical check b4 u buy.

Get a scan of the export certificate emailed to you, shouldn't be too hard to tell...

Yeah, I didn't think of that. Idiot.

Oh well not much I can do now.

I have been to All Imports and have test driven a stagea not too long ago

from what i could tell the cars were priced quite good compared to others on the market. all the cars at All Imports had very low km which made me skeptical about authenticity so i made the choice not to buy from them. they could not supply me with any auction papers or log books to any of their imported cars.

whatever you do get a proper mechanical check b4 u buy.

Righto. Well I'm not sure if I will be able to arrange a mechanical check whilst I'm down tomorrow.

I'll just have a look at it, see what I think. I'll see whatever papers they have. I'll even tell them if I buy it I will be having it checked back at home, and whatever needs fixing etc. will be undertaken at their cost, or something...

If not I'm happy to walk away and go to a more trusted dealer.

If only I had a bit more to spend and buy one of the nice ones from Northshore Prestige.

Edited by 3PointJ

Ok. Just drove the car. Goes great no weird noises or anything suspicious.

Will be cheling the papers and discussing all the relevant shit I mentioned when I go back there.

Seems not to bad so far anyways.

Well.

I didn't buy it. Got scared. Sone locals said to be careful. Also got in contact with an ex-employee from there.

I bought another M35. Nothing special, but it was a lot cheaper and is pretty decent. Pics coming soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...