Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought I'd start a new topic regarding my transplant as I'll update this as it all happens. So far I have the Supra box, CRS housing and now a 308 from a VB commodore that has a rear bowl sump. It has been rebuilt fairly stock apart from 40 thou bore. I've also purchased some L34 heads and a 286 cam from a friend who is doing an upgrade on his 308. I'll get it engineered with the stock motor first then bang on some extra goodies afterwards. I was thinking I'd have to use a forward bowl sump(VK style) but after a bit of measuring it looks like if I shift the motor back 40mm I'll clear the steering arm that runs parallel with the crossmember. Once my motor is out I'll have a better understading of this.

Any valuable info appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310942-c210-308-transplant/
Share on other sites

The motor has arrived. 308 bored 40 thou, other than that pretty stock. But only untill it's engineered. I've already purchased some L34 heads and a 286 cam. In the next couple of days I'll purchase a 600 Holley Vac Secondaries and a set of HDT block hugger extractors.post-44326-1268297012_thumb.jpg

No FKN around, this I am guilty of. When i get an idea in my head I go like a bull at a red handkerchief party. I was going to take my time over the next 6 months, but WTF. I got a 650 holley Vac secondries today and the HDT extractors so the motor is really taking shape. Need to rip the L6 out now and have a trial fit.

Bty the way I really need some cheap arts. #1 being a oil switch( bit that screws into the left side of the block and # 2 being the thermostat sender thing just below the thermostat and has wires going to it which is for temp gauge. I have to adapt to the 308 and mine are sold with motor. Please help

You might struggle to fit any decent extractors in the engine bay with the steering box in there. A R&P conversion might make life easier.

I had a C110 with a P76 donk fitted, and it had some funky 3 piece header on the RH side to clear the steering box and extended sump (sump was heavily modded to clear the Xmember). It was a total pain to try and remove the exhaust. I started going down a twin turbo conversion for it, but sold the car before I actually did any fabrication.

That's cool - will be keen to see the finished product. I've seen other 240K's with v8's so obviously it's doable.

Thinking back it may have been the huge winged sump that made life difficult and not so much the steering box location.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Had a trial fitment today, and all looks good. Extracyors will fit neatly but I will have to get a forward facing sump. I may take mine to work and get it sliced and turned around, nuless I can find a VK one on the cheappost-44326-1270453041_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Naaa not that lucky. The 308 mounts are going to be custom and the gearbox mounts also custom. Iv'e adapted my alternator, temp sender and oil pressure sender so i can use my original wiring. Block hugger exhausts fit nicely and over motor fitment is like a factory made as my mechanic put it.

Motor and box are now a fixed item. Tail shaft will be done next week along with clutch assembly. Getting there. Overall it was an excellent fit. No probs with extractors, the gear shifter is about 1 1/2'' more forward than what the L series was but I may bend the stick a wee bit. Sits nice and low and bulk wieght is towards the fire wall.post-44326-1272018913_thumb.jpg

How long till she's a goer mate? Nice work buddy.

I will say sorry for the lack of faith and pushing you for an rb conversion. After recent thought, i have faith. This will be a beast! Bring on the youtube vids :-)

what will the rest of the exhaust be?

Datsun gear sticks come in an array of shapes. When I went to Z shop last I saw some of the sticks were straight, and some had bends in them. I don't know which model has which shape though... Hope you find something that suits.

post-44326-1272108197_thumb.jpg this pic is with the motor and box in. The front hasn't dropped any lower than when the L6 and webers were in it. I wieghed the motor on way bridge, 190kg without flywheel, carb and extractors. I'm hoping to have it running in about 3-5 weeks. Depends on the engineering and pits test. Better be off now as I'm of to see the Hudugurus, oh yeah!

Things done: Motor and box in. Tail shaft ( shortened and balanced in), new rear shoes and a new handbrake cable in, new dizzy in, all exhaust done. What's left to do i hear you thinking, yeah not much.

Radiator support needs doin, accelerator cable, hook up the MSD 6AL, heater hoses,windscreen squirty bottle, fuel line. Put oil and plugs in, "" THEN LIGHT FIRE"" Of course there is still to big red tapes to cut through, being the engineering and the pits ( test station). But the end is nigh.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...