Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya everyone

It's come time for my R33 series 1 to go as I'm in desperate need of boot space and a 4 door.

1993 with 106,662k on the clock. Gun metal grey with a GTR spoiler (also have GTR rear pods

not painted or fitted)

2,000k's ago engine had major service and also new rear brake pads. Just replaced o2 sensor.

Mechanically stock as a rock and runs beautifully, never ever skips a beat after all the work biggrin.gif

Has a 3" exhaust, haven't been underneath to see what kind. Sounds real deep and growly but

no where near over the top <3

Has 17" R34 GT rims with 80-90% tread. One rim has a 1 cm scratch at the very rim of the.. rim.

Cusco front strut brace.

Kenwood head unit (KDC-MP333)

Fusion 6.5's in the front, Fusion 6x9's in the back. Real kick (Plastic grill on one has warped from sun slightly)

I'm the second Australian owner, have import & regencey papers. Was imported and stored for a while, then

taken by friends Mrs and used as her daily for driving the little one around.

Since I've had it, it does 400k's a fortnight. Paintwork has some small chips along the door lines from inconsiderate

drunks opening their doors on my car. There is a dent in the drivers side door next to the handle and 3 verticle

scratches next to it. Rear bumper has a smudge on the left side from a car only just hitting it in a carpark.

Interior has 3-4 minor scratches in that rubber coating around the gear stick from me trying to fit a LCD tv in the passenger seat tongue.gif

Apart from that paint, body, interior is beautiful

Only problem I have with the car is a HICAS issue where turning ignition off then on again quikly after a lengthy drive

results in heavy steering. The most reliable option is to install a lock bar which I'll be doing, or i'll knock the cost off

the sale price.

I'm sure I've forgotten something lol

Any questions/queries pm or email me [email protected]

$10,990 o.n.o

Edited by awsam
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314755-sa-r33-s1-auto-turbo-1993/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...