Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Main bolts are 38ft/lbs or 53NM.

Conrod is 12ft/lbs or 16NM then tighten an additional 60-65 degrees.

Funnily enough I just did all this last night. I dont have a protractor or angle wrech so I just marked on the rod cap where 1 corner of the nut was after the initial 16NM and then just turned it until the next corner lined up with that mark. Oddly enough, it ended up being the same as the main bolts after that extra 60 degrees. Tested it on the next one and 38 ft/lbs took it around 60 degrees or thereabouts.

Hi Michael,

Thanks for your reply. This is the same info I had but I guess being old school it didn't sound tight enough to me. The plus 60 deg. part gets me too but I can see where you're going with it and it sounds good to me. Just makes me question why it can't just have a torque setting as at the end of the day they will still be tighten up all the same.

Once again, thanks for the feedback. I'll get on with my rebuild now.

Regards,

Denis

43ft/lbs to achieve the 60 or 65 degrees?? I may need to go and nip them up another 5 ft/lbs each if thats the case. I was considering buying one the other day, but it would have put the assembly bit off even more. Probably a good idea to get one!

Thanks for the clarification though :( Hopefully Denis has taken note of what you said before assembling his bottom end.

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi. I also wonder how much torque is needed for the rod bolts on RB25DET.

I found this on a other site, is that right?

1) Apply engine oil to the conrod bolts and nuts bearing surface.

2) Tighten to 14-16Nm or 1.4-1.6Kg-m.

3) Place alignment marks to the nuts and the conrod cap (eg white paint etc) in one direction (if using the protractor).

4) Additionally tighten 60-65 degrees.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...