r33_racer

This is what the first batch came out like. See what you think. Stagea C34 Service Manual 0-49 ENG.docx

I was using the translator in Word. In order to make it work I have had to start breaking it up into 50 page lots and running it through the translator that way so it can cope. Is there any good free translation software that works well?

Sorry, I meant to get a link to a copy of the translated version if that was available yet? Is that available or is it still the Jap version? I have a copy of the C34 Service Manual, but it is in Japanese and when I tried to run it through a translator, it didn't like the PDF file I think.

This would be amazing to get a copy of if at all possible?

I've dowelled the billet main caps to the block many times now with custom made en26 dowels. Been doing it for big hp drag engines for the last 3+ years. It works very well and it makes the machining and assembly process far easier and quicker. I doubt if you could get away with dowelling the factory girdle and block and not require a tunnel hone at the minimum. I machined up hollow dowels to locate around the main studs in case you wanted to know. I've had no dramas with this method to date.

A third on that one too. head and block need to be machined to correct surface finish to help mls gasket seal properly. Helps that the faces are flat also...

Having raced a r33 gtst for the last 8-9 years, if you are requiring more then -4.0 camber up front then the suspension setup isn't right. I would be looking at why the car is rolling over so much and onto the outer shoulder first before trying to screw in more camber. You didn't mention what anti roll bar you are running too? what tire pressures do you run and how much caster? Have you ever checked tire temps after you come in or are you just working from wear patterns?

wow! that's changed since I last bought some. The last batch I got of them they were only about $35 each! Well ignore that then! RS prices have come down too. They use to be about $80 a sensor.

I get sensors from www.digikey.com.au They are the cheapest supplier I have been able to find in case anyone is looking at hall effect sensors of the Honeywell 1gt101dc type and other brands too. They also have pressure transducers in various types and pressure ranges, once again in Honeywell brand. That may help people who are looking for automotive sensors

Honeywell sensors (1gt101dc). Is that what you meant?

I just checked our dry sump pump and noticed we have a 1/4" bolt with a large washer screwed into the end of the pump shaft which looks like it would stop the pulley and key from possible running forward right off the shaft if it were to ever come loose. Does your shaft have a thread in the end? If so it might be worthwhile putting a bolt and washer in there as a potential back up in case it ever comes loose again and tries to walk off the shaft. Sorry to hear about that mate. Its always the little things you least expect that ruin it all!

This is how I made the cam bracket to hold a Honeywell gt101dc sensor and the trigger edge to bolt in place of the exhaust camgear washer. Its all kept close to the gear and it attaches to the factory cas bracket. Might help others if they want another way to go about it. Nice work on your setup too mate! Another kit out there will certainly help the RB community.

Good to see its finally all running! Shame about the radiator! How did it move to foul on the pump drive?? So a new twin pass radiator or something along those lines?

The 25 head I built for our circuit car had only very minimal port work. All I did was clean up the ports which was pretty well just some blending into the throat below the valve seat. That head had the supertech kit through it, solid lifter conversion and 1mm oversize valves. That engine was making 680rwhp on a 3.4l stroker with a gtx35r. From what I have seen, its really only needed if you are shooting for mega power; 800rwhp+. As everyone else has said, money can be easily spent on other things first!

I wouldn't think so. It would be more like they just inspect the parts when a shipment arrives and so they are good to sell. Would be the exact same process for everyone else too. In saying that the quality of all the china made parts these days is exceptionally good. Its getting hard to fault it.

The 30 is a big difference over the 25. Should help alot.

Looking good buddy! Will you be racing with us next year for all the rounds? Classic sports sedan series or just the outlaw rounds?

Shimless is obviously the best way to go if you can sort it out. Anyone running that kind of setup, what is standard practice for a head rebuild if required? I assume you need to grind the tips of the valves or top of bucket in order to reset lash after a valve/valve seat regrind? If it was possible, which I don't think it is with standard valve lengths is using lash caps instead of shims. Far harder to flick a lash cap then it is a shim. But I don't think there is enough valve tip protrusion above the retainer on a std setup in order to utilise a cap.

Also if you are building a new head and wanted to use big duration cams with big overlap you can sink the exhaust valves into the head a few millimetres to help stop intake flow passing straight out the exhaust valve during overlap. If you can achieve the ideal inlet to exhaust pressure ratio then you could make benefit out of the overlap without losing too much of the fresh intake charge blowing straight out the exhaust and being wasted. Should still get good blow down to clear out residual exhaust but keep as much of the fresh charge in the chamber for more bang!

Sounds like they are mismatching the intake lobe centres so they are phased differently to each other in each cylinder grouping. So they are basically opening one valve earlier or later then the other (depending on which way you look at it lol). A quick and easy way to change the mixture motion going into the chamber. Trying to induce more swirl into the airflow pattern entering the chamber which will increase efficiency and torque through better air/fuel atomisation and more complete burning of the mixture. If I were you I would go for those new kelford cams! Actually if you didn't want to use their cams you could achieve a similar effect by mismatching the valve lash on your intake valves. Set 1 valve at say 0.010" and then its mate at say 0.020". I have no idea what that difference might achieve in terms of valve opening degrees though. You would have to try it and dummy assemble and then use degree wheel & dial indicator to measure the difference in actual valve timing.

There should be rubber grommets and then steel washer inserts which press into the grommets. Last I checked there are four bolts that hold the backing plate to the head, that was on an rb25 head, 20 or 26 could be different. There isn't enough slop in those bushes and grommets to be a whole tooth out. If it is bad enough that is the case, then you should try and get new grommets and inserts and hopefully that takes out some of the slop.

Interesting. I will definitely look into it. May need to set it lower if that is indeed the case!

I run the ls2 round truck coils in my race car at 5ms dwell no issues, that is with coil near plug on ls1. I believe the d585s are the strongest output oem coil you can get. Im sure I read somewhere that GM made them for flex fuel suv's/trucks which explains the output and why they are the most sought after when upgrading ls ignition systems.

Any chance you rebuilt the head before assembling the engine? Did someone knock out the oil gallery plugs front and back and change to bspt/npt plugs when cleaning out the head properly? Sometimes if they aren't sealed up nicely when fitted oil can leak past them and run down and around. It's probably not the case, but it's another possible cause unless your head is unchanged, stock form and you are certain you have identified the front cam cap area as the point of egress.

Lap Time: 0:55.5588 (Lakeside Park) Had a slight improvement in overall lap times and PB from yesterdays racing at Lakeside.