r33_racer

How long till engine is in and running?

Very nice! The floating rotor hats look good mate. Do they still need to be hard anodised?

No torque plate really, your not going to remove much material, purely just to make sure there is a half decent crosshatch there for the new rings to conform with. If you had one its not that hard to bolt it down and do it, but it wouldnt be essential. If your super pedantic you probably would though.

Looks the goods! Will you be running a hone through lightly just to make sure the cross hatch is fresh. I think only maybe 4-5 strokes would do it for each bore, by hand ofcourse.

Can't some places do remote tuning?? Over the interweb?

Has anybody heard of any serious failures with these things in racing conditions? I mean like the behind the scenes kind of thing that doesn't get released till much later on. In particular the 8374 turbo? Later on down the track were looking at possibly switching to this unit to replace our GT35r's that have been rebuilt god knows how many times.

Did you end up running the rings you got from JE?

Lose the idea of an internal oil pump. Go straight for an external single stage belt driven pump, combined with an accusump and a good gated enlarged sump will sort out your oil system. That is probably the most critical part of your build for the abuse it will see on the track. A good crank trigger system for timing accuracy. Pretty well everything Justin mentioned. I use a Toyota mr2 spyder electric hydraulic power steering pump and it works perfectly. Boot mounted with pressure line and return line run up to the rack. Removing all the ancillaries from the block really gives you more room in the engine bay. Obviously run E85 or a similar alcohol fuel, helps with power production and temps. With that benefit run a heat exchanger in your radiator and the oil and water temps will be kept pretty well in sync.

I usually just use a m8 grubscrew and drill whatever hole size I want in it in the lathe and then drill and tap the two feed holes to suit. But if you don't have the equipment then its probably cheaper to use premade restrictors from KiwiRS4T.

+1 Leak down test. Find exactly where the problem is instead of guessing.

So after you lift off after 'hard boosting' and on decel it billows?

You wouldn't even notice the difference if you try to keep the split up to the gate or just weld the outlet on the housing with no split extended up it. I didn't bother with continuing the split when I went from twin gates on the manifold to one gate off the exhaust housing and there was no difference in response other then we could control boost properly.

Up to 235lb/hr they are similar in price, but they are a little larger in flow. Mine were pretty much 2500cc/min when flow tested. You do get more for your money. We had to switch to the Morans because the Bosch's/ID's are not reliable on straight alcohol unfortunately.

They certainly are. They're not just sexy gold nuggets, they are also fully serviceable, upgradable and quite robust. I love them.

Doesn't it pick up oil from the main gallery that feeds the head and mains?

Moran motorsport billet atomiser injectors. They are specifically designed for alcohol fuels. Doesn't get any better for the price and they do about a half dozen different sizes.

In most cases you can run with the std clearances and it should not pose any problems. We have been using kelford's and all the cams we have had from them, varying sorts over the years, all stated about 0.010" on inlet and 0.012" on exhaust. I guess all you can do is see what you actually have first and go from there. Is the rest of the valve train standard Nissan? Its only the cams that are aftermarket?

Its usually cylinders number 1 and 6 that leak as the ends want to bow out, but it could be somewhere else. Just look for the exhaust marks where it has been blowing out. To fix it it needs to be faced or the high points taken off so its flat again. If you have a straight edge you can do it yourself with a file or honing stone it just takes abit of time to do. Otherwise any engine machine shop can do it. The ones I have had done it has cost me anywhere from $20-$50 depending on how bad it is and how long it takes them to get it straight again. I am sure there would be plenty of machineshops in Adelaide who could do it.

We had the same issues until we got the core rebuilt by Mr Turbo on the Gold Coast. He replaces the crappy garrett guts with his and ever since we did that we havent had anymore dramas. Its definitely a weak point with them. You really need to keep the egts low (<800c) if they are to maintain any kind of reliability in extended periods of hard, high load use otherwise the temps just fatigue the bearing cages in no time.

I missed the front port when I last glanced at a RB block. So the RB's have two vents, one at the front and one at the back with nothing in between and the usual drains along the exhaust side. The 2J appears to have large holes possibly 14mm-16mm in diameter along both the inlet and exhaust side to act as drains and vents. That would be a much better setup for inter-bay breathing rather then the RB only having them at the front and back so the gasses have to travel and accumulate and squeeze up the front or rear vents. Seems Toyota actually built the engine with the anticipation of more horsepower being produced and the extra crankcase pressure having an immediate way to the head to get out. Stupid Toyotas out doing Nissan again!

I use the flex pieces all the time. They work well and provide a nice amount of 'give' for the exhaust system, however I put it right at the bottom of the dump pipe where it connects to the rest of the exhaust system. If possible use the next size up for your dump pipe if it is still to be fabricated, especially if you are going to plumb the waste gate back into it somewhere. So use a 3.5" dump pipe with a 3" system from there back. You can cut it off close to where it merges with the other pipes, however leave a little bit out, perhaps 3/4" worth and tig a cap over it. Or you could just bolt a cover plate onto the flange, that will work fine too. It wont really make any noticeable difference. With the welding of the support rods, make sure you use stainless and make sure it is tig welded on. If it is mild steel and mig'd it will more then likely crack off and potentially cause more stress risers.

Precisely what ARTZ said. Weld a rod or two from the head flange to the turbo flange and it will help keep the stress off the exhaust runners in between. Also try and support the dump pipe somewhere so the first half of the exhaust isn't hanging from the turbo, that will also help.

That's a drain for the excess oil that bleeds off from the VCT. If you look internally in a 25 head it lines up directly across from the oil bypass port on the inlet side of the head. If it wasn't there the factory drain holes would possibly be overwhelmed by all the excess oil from the VCT when it's not in use. Vents are on the inlet side only and drains are on the exhaust side only in a RB engine. It's all dictated by the direction of the cranks rotation and how it pushes and pulls the crank case gases around.

Which Rb's have a standard crank case vent over the factory internal port? I havent seen any with one from factory. They all have a factory internal vent, the big odd shape port in the inlet side back corner, but I havent noticed anything else along the inlet side of the engine that links the crank case up to the head with access to the cam covers??

It is true that they have developed better rings but more so in the form of coatings. The problem is turbocharged engines are a lot harsher on pistons and rings then NA engines. The main difference being that the top ring is usually a nitrided steel ring instead of the usual ductile iron ring. By the way I've never heard of a titanium ring?? You sure it's not a titanium nitrate coating on a steel ring or a iron ring? Steel rings do not like to seal as well as a ductile iron ring, however they can handle more temperature and pressure. So for long term durability the steel is ideal but for quick seating and better sealing the iron is the way to go. Essentially your correct, ring tech has improved, however its still not good enough to work fantastic on every engine combination. On one particular engine it might, but on another it could still be inadequate.