r33_racer

reduce the grip...less load on box! Problem solved!

We run Peterson scavenge filters. But any coarse inline filter will do the job of protecting any large objects from going through your pump. Does your oil pump have a gerotor gear design or spur gears? If its spur gears its not as critical and if your trash screen inside the sump was good enough then you could just leave that. Unfortunately gerotor design is not so forgiving...

Looking good bud! Slowly getting there with the engine build. Hopefully old mate gets that refund happening! Is there any sort of pre filter before that external oil pump? Like a screen on the inside of the weld on fitting in the sump?

Nitto isnt exactly aussie made....its the same as BC, spool and the rest. Someone misinformed you there lol. Eitherway it will be better then the standard crank. Rods and pistons are much of a muchness.

You should really be going off stretch, not torque. Measure the thread OD on the bolt to see if its 7/16" or 3/8". 3/8" bolts are the norm for most RB rods.

Very nice. Hopefully it all works well.

Its the ps belt alignment issue isnt it? Belt length would not even be considered as a problem even if it were one.

Usually they will want to load up and kick over as you run out of thread and the shank binds up in the top of the hole. How bad it does it I guess can be put back to how tight you wind it in. Even wound in loose I have found when you then put the washers and nuts on all lubed up they still can turn into the block abit, bind up and kick over before you reach the right tension. You are correct about them being put in by hand, so not very tight at all. I think that is what the ARP instructions state. You would think that when you screw the stud into the block that it would start to pull up against the top of the threads, but when it locks up when you run out of thread to screw in, its something like the majority of the tension is held in the first couple of threads (where it has locked in and taken up the slop) and from there down it dissipates to far less. I believe as you tension from there it only becomes worse. You are not wrong about the filings mate, worst part about using a die grinder!

Looking good so far mate. Nice work. The other thing you could check out while you have your die grinder out is to smooth out around the water jacket slots around the bores in the block. Polish them up so its not a cast finish with lots of stress risers. Then when assembling the engine see if your studs when screwed in are actually nice and perpendicular to the block face. If not, best trick is to drop a ball bearing down each hole and then screw the stud down on top of it. The point load from the ball when bottomed out will stand the stud up dead straight (well as straight as the block threads are) and evenly load each thread. You end up with a straight stud and uniformly loaded threads which makes for a stronger base when holding the head down. Its quite the simple and inexpensive trick.

Very nice car mate. Makes me want to build one! Pain in the arse timing the cams with almost no room to get a dial indicator to stay sitting on the cam follower accurately hey?

They do however have the half moon slots in the conrod side faces to direct oil up and around. The argo rods I mean. If you want to improve your Nitto rods, just get your machinist to cut the slots into the rod faces, its not very hard to do. Any chump with a mill and ball nose cutter can do it.

You can call Trevor (0412 506 398) at Pacific Engine Parts. He will make you a set if he doesn't have any already made.

Yeh they filled the rear subframe with lead to add the extra 100kgs imposed on them. Kept it low and right under the rear axle line.

They tuned the engine with pressure transducers to do cylinder pressure over crank degrees. On 1.3 bar they went from 550 back to 670bhp. They nearly got it all back. Very clever stuff.

Got a chance to talk to Fred Gibson a few weeks ago, he said they ran them up to 8500rpm. They were making 680bhp. Dont know where the 7k thing came from.

Needs more cubes!

ACL/ROSS forged piston. Looks like 0.040" oversize if I read that correctly.

You could use a 4 banger out of a midget speedcar....naturally out of balance cut in half v8 with no harmonic balancer/damper

If the engine was built from scratch, as in torque plate bored/honed with the studs at their ideal torque etc etc then I would use the arp tensions as they make the stud and know what torque is required to achieve proper stretch plus the machining was done to suit that tension. However, if you are just putting some studs in your standard engine to replace the bolts for whatever reason then I would go no more then the standard torque. The problem you might have is the bores will be stressed in a different manner now and they will most likely go out of round (even if only slightly) with more torque pulling the head down harder.

Sweet. Should pick up more downforce in the high speed cornering area.

Car looks good mate. Another fellow r33 peddler. If your splitter works well you may need to jack your wing up higher to get into some clean air flow so it can balance out the front. It looks a little low there. Usually flush with the roof line is a good height to guarantee unmolested airflow. It made a huge difference to our car when we did it.

Looking good buddy! Abit different for sure, but something is better then nothing.

A single 1.2/1.25 will do the job.

Also when we switched to methanol we had to use a standard thermostat as the engine ran a lot cooler then on petrol and with the nismo thermostat we couldn't get the engine to stay on temp. I suspect it will be a similar situation with e85.

Did he also recommend a big -12an oil return mate? I got a borg warner s400sx to fit to my car and I'm curious what oil lines to run for it too. Some people say -3an and others -4an, but most have said a -12an return. Curious to know what you have been told?