r33_racer

I fitted one from a 2010 turbo diesel patrol I think...not sure exactly what year it was, but it didn't have the vacuum pump attached to it. I believe it was rated at 130amps also.. Was about $500 brand new from Nissan spare parts. It was not a direct bolt up though, I did have to machine up a linkage so it could still adjust belt tension. Bolted to the block the same but the lug to pick up the slotted adjuster bracket was in a different spot, hence the linkage.

From what I have seen the strongest factory block out there is the RD28 block. Which is due to all the extra ribbing it has cast into it. The factory bores are not really that much thicker/stronger like alot of people have said in the past. Ultimate budget setup would be RD block with some darton sleeves in it and grout filled to within an inch or two from the top to allow coolant around the top of the bores and access to head without too much stuffing around. That's without actually going to a full billet alloy block which is getting into serious money territory. That's a good starting point to hold atleast 1500+ HP. Just what sort of power/torque are you talking about here roughly?

Indeed it is. I just wanted to make sure people knew it wasn't just as simple as matching rod/piston weights, especially when it comes to performance/race builds. However, I get where you are coming from in regards to answering the original question. Quite often its easier to just give a simple answer rather then taking ages to go in depth explaining every facet to a certain process or method. More often then not its not really needed.

The only reason it wont be draining now is most likely because there is no more oil in there to drain as you have alleviated the blow by and oil control issue. If it were going to be a drain it would only drain under no or light load situations, not under full throttle full power running.

Where are you located mate?

The only problem most would have doing it themselves is not being able to match the small ends and the big ends of the conrods. Which quite often can be out a fair amount. Without the proper jigging to do that process you are really only matching the overall weight. Which I guess is better then nothing...

Just to clarify if you are draining back to the sump then it needs to be on the exhaust side of the block/sump. Inlet side will only ever vent.

We use the 2033-A pump as a lift pump in the race car and it is quite loud! We had a few lift pump problems with running methanol. So far the Weldon pump is proving its worth nicely, if its reliable then the noise isn't important, at least in a racing environment. Thought of Weldon after reading a few of your posts about these pumps Justin. They are top notch!

You're just going to have to put some play dough on there and bolt it all down and turn it over and see how close the valves come to those slugs!

From memory you were saying you wanted to run tighter then that on the top right?

What sort of power you expecting out of this thing mate?

Is that the same as the garrett vband housing equivalent?

very nice mate! Where did you get the box from? Im assuming you got it with the conversion plate and RBx auto bell housing?

I can relate with number 3. Cast is never very nice to drill, especially over great lengths. I think from memory I had to use long series 9mm drill bits. Then slightly blunten off the cutting edge so it was not so 'bitey' and want to pull itself through so aggressively. What were the old ring gaps?

I don't know if you mentioned it, but what auto are you running?

Yeh. AASA stuff doesn't have restrictions on fuel. Only cams that doesn't allow it. It's great!

Yeh the methanol helps, but it also helps keep the temps under control. Plus it's cheap. Took a little while to nut out a good fuel system that can handle the methanol reliably. The mechanical fuel pump works a treat!

Yeh mate it's a rwd circuit car.

Not sure if there was any difference in rpm to achieve full boost. We were using the data logs in the ecu to determine most of everything and it looked to be much the same. To compare if anyone was interested, I am pretty sure the data log said we were making 15psi around 3200rpm and 23psi around 3600rpm. The diff ratio is 3.7. We did runs in a few different gears to see if there was any difference as this gearbox 1:1 is 6th gear. Difference was pretty well bugger all, about 5-10 horsepower with much the same curve everywhere. I was expecting it to be alot different. I guess because the ratios are so close for 4/5 and 6th gear it ended up much the same. The tires were 641.7mm diameter roughly. Rolling circumference 1953.13mm. I was working it out backwards this morning to see what it was roughly in engine rpm.

Sorry to say fellas that I ended up quitting on this. I did finish it and got it all going, but it was an absolute pig to drive. I couldn't get the change over from off boost to on boost with the bypass valve to work very well. I spent a fair bit of time trying different valves and setups trying to make it more drive-able. It was just taking too long to try and get it to a level where I would be happy with it. My apologies for the disappointment peoples! If I had more free time and absolutely no social life or girlfriend then I would attempt to perfect it all, but this is just not feasible. I really hate to be a quitter...its killed me a little on the inside not being able to get it all to work how I was hoping. Anyway. the car is on the back burner at the moment. The back up plan is to go to a big single and just pump out some laggy horsepower for fun.... of course when time presents itself!

Sorry guys, just to clarify, this engine runs on methanol also.

It's a garrett GT35r that MTA (Mr Turbo Aus @ Gold Coast) rebuilt and put his billet compressor wheel into. Its proving to be quite potent so far. Its pushing some serious flow at low pressures. On the old manifold and housing which was split pulse T3, it made about 600rwhp on 21psi. That was with the 0.82 rear which was clearly too small and choking the crap out of the engine. We just put a Modena 6 Speed Sequential box in it to replace the dead PPG gearset. Now with the sequential box, the IGN cut for flat shift has been killing the turbo gaskets! So you see we went to v-band manifold and housing to improve reliability and in turn it made another 60rwhp. Most likely, purely because we went up in size with the rear housing, which also increased the boost by 2 psi no doubt due to less back pressure. The engine is a Spool 3.4 Stroker with a 25 head. The lag difference was pretty well nothing. I'm not sure if I have an old dyno graph with old setup around. I will look for it though. The extra power was at the wheels too. I am too scared to measure back pressure in the manifold...big cubes(for an RB) and small turbo, im confident the EBP will be spectacular. Hopefully I covered everything!

So we went in for a quick look over of AFR's and boost control after switching to a new exhaust manifold and rear housing with V band entry and the monster spat out another 60hp. It was not expected. We did go to a slightly bigger rear housing. 1.01a/r vband entry from the old t3 .82 split pulse. Boost increased by 2psi also. Not bad for a GT35r