r33_racer

With those spring rates I would be dropping the rear sway bar off totally. If it does roll a little then stiffen up the front bar, though I doubt it will. Run about -1.0 rear camber with about 3-4mm toe in overall. There is also an inherent flaw in the rear end design of the r33's when the tire travels from a drooped state to loaded state, the toe essentially becomes dynamic rather then staying at what you set it too statically when doing a wheel alignment.

That looks pretty well like it. So what Simon is saying is stick your washer or two in the seat under the spring in the screw in plug. Good job so far. Only thing I would do is add a crankcase vent off the sump somewhere (typically intake side above oil level) while the engine is outside of the car. Even if you don't use it, its there for later on.

Another 33 gtst. Love it. Keep us updated!

Pretty much as KiwiRS4T just explained. Virtually all piston engines are the same, work under the same principles and suffer from more or less the same issues when pushed on the track. I wouldn't recommend teeing in the turbo oil drain also. The oil from the turbo will not actually drain as the joint will be constantly pressurised with venting blow-by. You will end up with oil leaking around the front/back turbo seals. CA's, SR's and RB's I have seen them all suffer the same blow-by issues at the race track. They can all benefit from adequate crankcase ventilation.

If your dipstick is blowing out then you have excessive blow by. So your initial thought was correct, you can ignore the comp test as it wont tell you what's wrong in this situation. Your crankcase is pressurised. Simplest fix is to put a crankcase vent from your sump pan to your catch/breather can so the blow-by pressure can evacuate. What you could do is put a hose on your dip stick tube and run that to your catch can. That would help and it is pretty easy to do. Much easier then pulling sump off and having a -12 fitting or hose tail welded on.

If your bearings clearances are all standard then use a standard viscosity oil which I think is a 30 weight? If you cant get the pressure to drop when warm below say 120psi at full noise where the oil relief is cracked open then you will need to reduce the spring pressure in the bypass of the pump. If you don't want to do that then you can hook up an external Peterson oil pressure regulator between your sandwich plate and oil cooler/filter arrangement and plumb that in so you can regulate the pressure going into the main oil gallery.

Lumpy knows his stuff.. Very switched on fella. I haven't spoken to him in years now. He is a great bloke! You are lucky to have someone like him local! But I'm happy you are making some progress mate! Loving it.

Aside from maybe getting some aftermarket shims that might be a tighter fit in the seat, chemically retaining them is probably the best/easiest fix you can try.

If you are worried that much, loctite the shim to the bucket.

It has been a few weeks....hows it coming along?

Winner Winner Chicken Dinner!

Valve seal should be 100% when a head is brand new or reconditioned. In your case if they leak a little that's probably not too bad. If its leaking a lot then recondition time it is. Hopefully 3 and 4 might need abit of machine work, but the others might just need a lap in with some fine paste and they will seal back up.

You can very easily flatten the plates out in a drill press using a few 2" chocks of wood each side and press with the chuck in the middle using another piece of wood across the width of the plate to spread the load evenly. A few good overbends and it will spring back to flat. I have the same issue with the plates I make, no soon as they come out of the jig in the CNC mill they spring. But he is right, a few mm in bow can very easily be pushed out by finger pressure, which makes it no problem for 20 x m6 counter sunk screws and the rest that hold the plate down to the sump rails.

If it uses Honeywell 1GT101 DC units then yes we are. We aim for 0.040" as that seems to be the ideal point for accurate reading. Sooooo when will this thing be rolling under its own power?

More like replacing valve guides, stem seals, new valves most likely unless their run out is not bad, then seats will need to be cut. However if you pull the valves out and spin them in a lathe or drill press or even a hand drill and if somehow they aren't bent, you might get away with just a heavy lap in to make sure they are sealing and then all good.

Hey just out of curiosity mate, what clearance does the Ross trigger kit say to spec the sensing gap between tooth and sensor? 0.040" or thereabouts? Do they just supply shims or something to pack the sensor down or up to get the proper clearance so it gets a good reading?

That sucks about the clutch plates. With our NPC twin plate in the race car when we switched to the PPG gear set which was using the Chevy splined input, they just took out the Nissan centre splines and riveted in a Chevy spline boss to both plates. I don't know whether you have driven a car with a NPC twin plate before but its a solid type clutch which I would swear is just as light as a standard clutch and drives likes a standard one in terms of take up when released. Its crazy how nice it is for a 1000hp rated clutch. Its an option you could look at if you cant find a solution for your current clutch.

Good to see its all sorted. Congrats on the outcome too! I bet you are happy that issue is in the past now

This is the cleanest build on the whole forum. Every time I see your build Nick I want an R31... Cant wait to see this monster finished! Its going to be awesome

In regards to the sway bar, with our r33 gtst track car we ended up dropping the rear sway bar off totally and found a huge increase in rear end grip. It helped immensely with the oversteering we were encountering on corner exit. It may help in your setup if it still is oversteering but I guess it comes down to your suspension setup also....how the shocks are valved and what spring rates you are running. Might be something to try out one day.

Yeh it was a wild guess. But I suppose Trent would be onto it if it was a problem. Hopefully it is just the CAS that is playing up and it all comes good when its run with the replacement.

More often then not its something stupidly simple.... How about the water temp sensor? Could that play a role in perhaps a timing correction table based on what temps or something??

Nice build mate, unfortunate about the old chassis! If you are planning on doing more drift and sprint events I highly recommend getting an accusump and plumbing that up. It is a good budget solution for oil surging issues which you may end up having later on down the track as you get faster and faster. Love the inlet manifold too, that is very nicely done.

Sounds pretty good! Let us know how it goes mate.

Scott are you going to run a higher pressure radiator cap? If you can get like a 25-30psi cap that should help push the boiling point to somewhere near what you are talking about. We run Prolube 15-50 mineral oil, its cheap (about $80 for 20L)and works well with methanol. But water and oil never really go above 100c. Typically sits around 85-90c. I welded in the biggest oil cooler I could fit inside the side tank of the radiator working as a heat exchanger. Seems to work pretty good.