Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got a 1995 r33 gts-t that wont start after cutting out mid drive.

The engines still truning over, but the cars not getting any power to the lights in the dash, the elctronic boost control, turbo timer, windows and sun roof. Its happened a couple of times and weve checked fuses and relays and there all intact. We thought it was the immobaliser but after bypassing that it was the same problem. Checked the fuelpump and thats also working.

Its happened a couple of times but ive just wriggled some wires around near the fuse panel and, i got power back to all of the above. I think it could be a loose wire from the ignition because none of that gear runs with out the ignition being on.

Has anyone had this problem before or know anything i could check?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320891-car-wont-start-any-help-apprciated/
Share on other sites

Is the battery secured tightly? Happened to my mates R32, went over a slight bump and the battery wasn't very secure so it jumped up and hit the bonnet, arced out everything, was completely dead.

Failing that, check earth cables for dodgy connections

have u got spark?? and check if the fuel line is clean. all coils are on,

get your hands on a new batters or hook up a jump starer pack soo you no you got full power

but yeah it could be some thing simple but i dont know

Yea i got spark, will check all the coils aswell havent done that. its a new fuel

filter and the fuel pumps pumping, lines are clean and all that.

havent tryed jumping it yet will give that a crack when i get home from work.

hoping its something simple

cheers mate

I got a 1995 r33 gts-t that wont start after cutting out mid drive.

The engines still truning over, but the cars not getting any power to the lights in the dash, the elctronic boost control, turbo timer, windows and sun roof. Its happened a couple of times and weve checked fuses and relays and there all intact. We thought it was the immobaliser but after bypassing that it was the same problem. Checked the fuelpump and thats also working.

Its happened a couple of times but ive just wriggled some wires around near the fuse panel and, i got power back to all of the above. I think it could be a loose wire from the ignition because none of that gear runs with out the ignition being on.

Has anyone had this problem before or know anything i could check?

Cheers

I think you answered your own question?:D

yea ihad but theres a seperate relay that was out of the immobaliser but still hooked in so that hadnt bin bypassed. but yea new immobaliser and learned abit bout the wiring of the beast :) so is all good xD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...