Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

been having a fuse issue in my S2

my interior fuse keeps on blowing out, i have replced about 5 fuse so far.

all of my interior lights work when the fuse is not blown

i've noticed that when i insert the 10A fuse it sparks

i have also tried a higher amp fuse 20A yesterday all lights working, then got into the car this morning interior lights still work started the car and went to work.

got to work no interior lights were working, during the drive i had radio on, headlights and Heater and i turned on rear dimister

has anyone had this problem?

any thoughts

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322328-fuse-issue/
Share on other sites

i had a dash lights and rear lights fuse constantly blowing. turns out it was a faulty gauge bulb. found out by in the short times when I also changed the fuse to a higher amp, the light was dull. Good luck. Im still having globe problems at the moment but hopefully fixed now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322328-fuse-issue/#findComment-5258117
Share on other sites

thanx reiseva but no luck

took out the interior bulbs out but no luck

as soon as i put a fuse in it blows (wasted another 5 fuses even used a 30amp)

i tested the 1Oamp fuse for interior lights with a multimeter and it reads 16V + is that right?

should it read zero when evrything is off and the doors are close?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322328-fuse-issue/#findComment-5258194
Share on other sites

depends on how you tested it, the interior lights are negatively switched, so the positive feed is constant. so if you test between ground and the fuse terminal you will get a voltage reading even with the lights off.

i find it strange that you are getting 16v, was that with the car running or off? should be more like ~12v with engine off and ~14v when running. and which fuse is blowing exactly, inside or outside fuse box? which row/column?

Edited by QWK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322328-fuse-issue/#findComment-5258310
Share on other sites

Be careful... I had a similar problem on my M35 except the interior light kept blowing. So replaced it with a Led globe. Then the fuse blew, replaced that and sparks and smoke and net result.... semi blown Body Control Module (BCM) so a few more electronics don't work now.

I am pretty sure I have accidentally stripped the coating off a wire and it has earthed causing the blown BCM.

Work backward to when you last did some work on the car and see if you can find any marked wires.

Cheers

Andy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322328-fuse-issue/#findComment-5258647
Share on other sites

anything else stop working when it blows, more likely to be an aftermarket accessory like cd play or gauges. i fixed up some wiring where someone installed a cd player and tapped into what they thought was a ground, turned out to be the positive line of the lighting circuit, testing the line goes back through the bulb and gives continuity to ground. had to replace most of that line as the insulation almost completely melted off.

apart from chasing the wiring and checking for shorts, i think from memory the dome light is supervised by a control module just above (or below, cant remember lol) the inside fuse box. could be a fault with that, is a white box and also controls some of the door lock mechanisms.

Edited by QWK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322328-fuse-issue/#findComment-5258701
Share on other sites

yeah good point about earthing throught the globe...I am at best "self taught" with auto electrics and thought that any wire with continuity to earth must be an earth, I didn't realise things like globes and probably others will show some earth continuity when the circuit is off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322328-fuse-issue/#findComment-5259129
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...