Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

A few of my friends know that i have been testing the Kido racing range of products that are Made in Taiwan, particularly their brake kits, and coilover suspension packages with surprising results.

They really stand up to some serious abuse, and i have no qualms in using them in my future vehicle builds. I have tested them on my R34 GTR and are currently going through installation on the Supra which i have built over the last two years.

The deal with the coilovers is $1100 per set including delivery to your door, and they come with custom spring settings, so if you require a heavier or lighter spring than Kido provides please let me know when you place the order.

The reason i use this company is they have an association with manufacturing some of the Greddy products, and i was willing to give them a go.

$1100 including shipping with choice of spring rates, 10 people needed. Group buy will go for three months or stop earlier if the numbers are reached.

Here is some information on whats available and some photos.

● Mono-tube shock design

● 40 levels of dampening adjustability can be set to any preference

● 44mm linear characteristic internal piston

● Italian IP F.A 5W made very high viscosity index guarantees efficient shock-absorbing action at any ambient temperature

● Lower bracket height adjustability prevents the needs to adjust the spring perch offering the max shock-absorbing travel

● SAE9254 cold-bent spring is designed to optimize the balance between performance and comfort

kido3.jpg

kido2.jpg

kido1.jpg

KIDO_COILOVER_APPLICATION.xls

Edited by Adelaideprosound

You might want to ready the group buy sticky here

You need to supply a start and end date for your group buy as per the rules.

Letting you know, so your thread doesn't get locked or deleted.

before handing your money over, i hope everyone knows this is the same company making the fake bride seats that are going around, the fake takata harnesses, the fake sard regulators and many other fake seats.

why support a bunch of theives, selling replica items for almost the same price.

Because making people pay $1000's for something that would cost nowhere near as much to make isn't thieving?

IDC what you say about R&D they still factor in a major profit margin.

Before we get on the bagging train, please realise that these coilovers are no different, than maybe , G4, D2 and the like. They are pretty much all made in Taiwan and is no way reflected on their quality.

However if you want to feel like research and development is the way to go then go ahead and buy any of the other brand names. I have used the product and all i can say is i havent had any problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...