Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they hold the engine and gearbox in place so that they can push the car forward effectively. If you had no engine/gearbox mounts it would be easier for the engine to turn itself rather than turn the wheels and push the car, so when you put your foot down you'd get all kinds of angry noises under the bonnet as the engine turns and hits your chassis as it does so, your engine would run like shit because it has ripped out all its vacuum hoses, coolant lines would pull off and you'd spray coolant everywhere, it'd rip your exhaust open so you'd get some nice unmuffled engine noises and then it would probably die when you sever some major electrical cables and the alternator/battery are no longer connected to the injectors. Also when you rupture your fuel lines, it'll start a fire when the severed electrical leads touch a body part and make a spark.

So in other words, engine and gearbox mounts are good to have. Why, is something wrong with yours? ;)

Upgraded mounts will be filled with polyurethane rather than rubber - rubber allows more movement and less NVH (noise vibration harshness) in the cabin. However urethane mounts hold the engine/gearbox rigid so that you can be more precise and effective with your driving inputs through the rear wheels.

Personally I wouldn't bother, engine mounts are one of the last things to do - if you want to - because their effect is minimal compared with other mods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The boot notch on the GK Tech rods is different to OEM yes. You'll find a solution. They are a good rod, I have used many of them for various setups, and no they are not ' just for drift cars', they are fine as an OEM replacement. Same goes for the tie rod ends although I found they transmitted a huge amount of NVH a normal balljoint masks, making it feel like there was something loose or knocking, even though there wasn't. If you used the same pieces on each side, no reason one angle should be different to the other side. Have you checked ride heights/measured the angles? Or just visual? Your alignment will be massively out of whack yes. Up to you; it is worth taking the time to learn wheel alignments and do it yourself. I have never had better wheel alignments and I haven't taken my car to a shop for, dunno...many many years. Spend a few hundred on equipment, do alot of research via online articles, youtube vids, and "trial and error" on setups. Eg, set it with too much toe-out, toe-in, too much or little caster, drive the same stretch of awesome twisty mountain road each time, learn how they feel and how the car's handling has reacted to your changes.
    • Won’t be hard to beat them. 🤣 Farken sponge cakes!
    • Nah I did not will have to another time. I only installed a blitz return flow FMIC probably 1000kms ago. When I took the old piping off there was basically no oil in piping. At this stage it has to be valve stem seals. When I roll down a big hill in gear and then throttle down the bottom, I get the same puff of smoke.
    • I believe when they added coolant to cool the turbo it negated the need for turbo timers as water continues to flow even when the engine is shut off I forget the actual terminology, I'll just say the coolant "percolates" through the turbo which stops the oil cooking itself to death  Well....that's how I see it, as all the plant at work that has coolant lines to the turbo can be shut down straight away, whereas the older plant with only oil feed to the turbo you need to idle it for a few minutes
×
×
  • Create New...