Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I was wondering if any of you guys who have previously done the +T conversion can help me clarify a few things. I'm currently in the process of doing the conversion but I just needed some answers in regards to the oil return line.

Initially my plan was to use a T-piece into the VCT oil return line but after doing a dummy fit, I was told, and by looking at the fact that the engine mount is in the way, that it is a prick to try and get the line from the turbo to the VCT.

So now I think the last resort is to tap into the block, however I have a few questions. What did you guys do in the regards to the metal filings? Did you take out the sump out? Is it possible to take the sump out in an R33 without lifiting the engine? or Did you take any other particular measures to get rid of the filings? or Is it pretty safe to do so without the filings having much effect?

Anyways, thanks for your time and help. I appreciate it,

Rian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

You definitely want to take the filings out...

I havn't done a RBDE+T conversion, but from my own conversion, and searching around, i think RBs have a oil port already on the block that's there from the turbo variants, should be able to just use that.

But if not, you'll have to drill and tap a spot ABOVE the level of oil when full, and yeah you'll have to have it up on jack stands at least, a hoist would be better, and the engine out would be even better!

It's a bit of a job, cos the sump needs to come off, and you'll need to reseal it too.

Speaking from someone who has an oil leak from the same very part were talking about, I'd recommend getting a workshop to do it for ya. That's if there isn't a pre tapped spot on the block already. Another skyliner will be able to confirm this for ya.

Good luck!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5298916
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick reply mate, but can you clarify if I need the engine out or lifted to get the sump out? Because it seems that I could most likely get the sump out by removing the sway bar and sliding it forward, but I'm not 100% sure if it would hit the pickup while trying to remove sump.

Cheers,

Rian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5298920
Share on other sites

lol wtf??? engine out???

nein.

first of all how the hell did u get filings in there???

here's what i did. rip everything i needed that would be in the way - out of the way

called a pirtek / enzed guy

he fitted the lines up and everything for about 300 bucks

dont stuff around ripping out engines n stuff

mind you this was on a 2 litre not 2.5

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5298934
Share on other sites

lol wtf??? engine out???

nein.

first of all how the hell did u get filings in there???

here's what i did. rip everything i needed that would be in the way - out of the way

called a pirtek / enzed guy

he fitted the lines up and everything for about 300 bucks

dont stuff around ripping out engines n stuff

mind you this was on a 2 litre not 2.5

Well if I drill a hole into the block for the oil return, wouldn't some of the filings go into the block? Mind you I will be vacumming while drilling so that the majority of the filings will be out, but wouldn't some of it still fall into the sump?

But you gave me an idea because I might get the pirtek/enzed guy to come around and see if maybe he can work out something easy to get the initial idea of having the oil return into the VCT working. Cheers.

Edited by mjscar
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5298964
Share on other sites

dude... the oil return lines and everything are already on the block!

they're just "tapped off"

also

not that this matters if you're paranoid about it... but think about a drill... think of the "tread" pattern

the filings go "out" not "in"

just drill carefully

but yes

pay a pirtek / enzed monkey to do it. don't make your hair go grey with this crap. they supply n fit everything while you go inside n drink a pepsi max.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5298991
Share on other sites

dude... the oil return lines and everything are already on the block!

they're just "tapped off"

also

not that this matters if you're paranoid about it... but think about a drill... think of the "tread" pattern

the filings go "out" not "in"

just drill carefully

but yes

pay a pirtek / enzed monkey to do it. don't make your hair go grey with this crap. they supply n fit everything while you go inside n drink a pepsi max.

Sorry for the huge image size

BLOCK

That is the picture of my block. As you can see in the bottom left-mid, all I have is an outline of a red marking for where the stock oil return would be. If that is the meaning of "tapped off" then I'm sorry I might have misunderstood the term.

I understand that some/maybe all other RB25DE have a bung for the oil return, but that red-ish marking is all I have.

But yeh, I'll most likely end up getting the Pirtek/Enzed guy to do it. Thanks for that advice, seriously was worried for a sec because I wasn't quite sure how I should go about it.

PS: I can't sleep. Not stressed out, but I'm also not at peace with this whole thing until you made me feel warm and fuzzy :) lol

Ohh btw, still haven't answered my question about whether taking the sump out is possible or not in the R33 without taking out the engine. Because as turbo x-trail pointed out, I might still have to clean the sump. or did you pretty much not bother with that Mr Eps?

Edited by mjscar
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5299009
Share on other sites

Sorry for the huge image size

BLOCK

That is the picture of my block. As you can see in the bottom left-mid, all I have is an outline of a red marking for where the stock oil return would be. If that is the meaning of "tapped off" then I'm sorry I might have misunderstood the term.

I understand that some/maybe all other RB25DE have a bung for the oil return, but that red-ish marking is all I have.

But yeh, I'll most likely end up getting the Pirtek/Enzed guy to do it. Thanks for that advice, seriously was worried for a sec because I wasn't quite sure how I should go about it.

PS: I can't sleep. Not stressed out, but I'm also not at peace with this whole thing until you made me feel warm and fuzzy :D lol

Ohh btw, still haven't answered my question about whether taking the sump out is possible or not in the R33 without taking out the engine. Because as turbo x-trail pointed out, I might still have to clean the sump. or did you pretty much not bother with that Mr Eps?

you might get away with it, but personally, I wouldn't risk it. Besides, you ought not have any filings as such in The sump, but there will def be burred edges on the hole that you'd wanna clean up, plus, tapping the hole can cause more filings too. Up to you though. If you have a decent oil filter and/or a magnetic sump plug, and providing you're careful, it migh be ok.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5299276
Share on other sites

Good luck finding a mechanic that would tap the block without pulling the engine out. My mechanic t-pieced the oil feed of the pressure switch iirc.. they didn't want to risk tapping the block without taking the engine out.

I'm not sure on whether you can remove the sump without the engine coming out.. i'm sure if that were possible my mechanic would have done that? I doubt there's that much difference in that respect between an R33 and R34.

From what I understood, the oil return on the R33 block had a blanking bolt and only the R34 had a provision for where it "would" be on a DET...

I THINK Dori's engine had the bolt though? Anyways, I'll leave it to a couple of the R33 guys to give their advice on how they handled the oil return on the RB25DE but it's best not to risk just tapping the block without pulling the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5299320
Share on other sites

Good luck finding a mechanic that would tap the block without pulling the engine out. My mechanic t-pieced the oil feed of the pressure switch iirc.. they didn't want to risk tapping the block without taking the engine out.

I'm not sure on whether you can remove the sump without the engine coming out.. i'm sure if that were possible my mechanic would have done that? I doubt there's that much difference in that respect between an R33 and R34.

From what I understood, the oil return on the R33 block had a blanking bolt and only the R34 had a provision for where it "would" be on a DET...

I THINK Dori's engine had the bolt though? Anyways, I'll leave it to a couple of the R33 guys to give their advice on how they handled the oil return on the RB25DE but it's best not to risk just tapping the block without pulling the engine.

So if they didn't tap out your block and you didn't have the blanking bolt, what did you end up using for the oil return?

I think I'll get Pirtek to come around and see if they can sort something out with T-piecing into the VCT. I know that T-piecing into the VCT would be the most suitable solution, but I have just been told that it's a prick of a job, but doable. So since they'll be doing it, they'll probably make something custom to make it easier.

If I were to end up tapping into the engine as a last case scenario, I would definately be taking as much precaution as possible. Probably use a magnetic sump plug, magnetic oil filters (change every 500km or something for the first few weeks) and flush the engine with some shit oil and end up changing the oil every 2500km until probably 10000km or there is no longer any signs of metal. I know it ends up being pricey, but I guess it's better than taking the engine out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5299424
Share on other sites

Ok, have done what your asking.... however, I dont think I am going to be the best of help....

I did not know much about my car back when it got turboed, I did some of the stuff myself, but they guys who did the oil feed/return line dont exist anymore. I dont know if they took the engine out or not to tap the lines, however I can say that I dont think they just had a simple bung in and they pulled it out.

Ill try to get some pics for you by the end of the day.

Also, my return line is not into my sump.. its at the bottom of the block.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5299467
Share on other sites

Ok, have done what your asking.... however, I dont think I am going to be the best of help....

I did not know much about my car back when it got turboed, I did some of the stuff myself, but they guys who did the oil feed/return line dont exist anymore. I dont know if they took the engine out or not to tap the lines, however I can say that I dont think they just had a simple bung in and they pulled it out.

Ill try to get some pics for you by the end of the day.

Also, my return line is not into my sump.. its at the bottom of the block.

Some pictures would be excellent mate! Would help me a ton.

Yeh I'm not going to tap into the sump, I'm tapping into the block just above the sump if I end up taking that route.

But anywho I would be really grateful if you can get the pictures!

Appeciate it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5299478
Share on other sites

Quoting Dori:

oil feed; ran a braided line to oil pressure side & tee'd into that

oil return: on the r34 de, theres blank mark but with r33 there shud be a bolt which u can remove.

however on the r34 de theres the vct return which is a blanking bolt so i used that.

*end quote*

That's for an R34 but may be similar?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5299663
Share on other sites

Good luck finding a mechanic that would tap the block without pulling the engine out. My mechanic t-pieced the oil feed of the pressure switch iirc.. they didn't want to risk tapping the block without taking the engine out.

He's talking about oil drain mate, not feed.'

You shouldn't need to take the engine out unless there's something in the way. Just need the sump pan off then drill/tap/de-burr/clean away. seal it back up and fill him back up with oil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5299710
Share on other sites

I see.. I'll be honest when it comes to oil feeds/drains etc.. i'm not so knowledgeable, pretty much relying on what I can recall from my conversion.

ps. nice X-Trail, the build link in your sig doesn't seem to be working though :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5299884
Share on other sites

Quoting Dori:

oil feed; ran a braided line to oil pressure side & tee'd into that

oil return: on the r34 de, theres blank mark but with r33 there shud be a bolt which u can remove.

however on the r34 de theres the vct return which is a blanking bolt so i used that.

*end quote*

That's for an R34 but may be similar?

Yeh for the oil pressure I'm pretty set: T-piece into the oil pressure sensor and run a braided line from that, behind the block, and to the turbo.

As for the VCT, that's interesting that the R34 have a blanking bolt instead. Doesn't it run VCT anymore or something? But it's good to know that you guys have had no problem with going into the VCT.

He's talking about oil drain mate, not feed.'

You shouldn't need to take the engine out unless there's something in the way. Just need the sump pan off then drill/tap/de-burr/clean away. seal it back up and fill him back up with oil.

The problem on a skyline is that the sump is a one piece, ie there is no sump pan per se. Thus, I've been told, it makes it impossible to try to remove the sump without taking out the engine because the oil pickup gets in the way. Unless I want to lift the engine a few cms and probably can just make it, but I don't know how much piping and shit I have to take off.

But what do you guys think about my earlier plan to try and get the filing out by other means such as magnetic oil filters with more frequent change, magnetic sump plug, and more frequent oil change? Do you rkon that will stop all the filing from getting through or am I missing something important?

Edited by mjscar
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325331-help-on-det/#findComment-5300107
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...