Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my R33 GTS-T coupe cheap. Unmodified. Stock as a rock...apart from headunit.

2.5 litre turbo. 5 speed manual. climate control, central locking, electric windows and mirrors.

16inch 200sx rims with 80%+ tread on great tyres.

Imported almost 2 years ago. 1st Australian owner.

Sitting at appox 90,000km's currently.

Body in fair condition. Never had a problem with it machanically.

I'm no machanic...i beleive the drive belts need to replaced...a little squeaky.

Starts first time everytime. Reliable, quick, fun car.

Located in Lilydale, VICTORIA.

2 months rego left. Not selling with RWC.

$6,500 - I am open to offers!!

post-54603-1277632452_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1277632398_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326544-r33-gts-t-coupe-manual-90000ks/
Share on other sites

Do you know what is needed for rwc? noticed your on 5 posts so you wouldnt be able to reply to a message if i sent u one :cool: also reason for sale?

I can't think of anything it would need for rwc. No obvious oil leaks. The rubber on the tyres is very good. Seat belts in good order. All lights work....

Reason for sale - my 2 kids are getting bigger and its a bit tight in the back for them now :D Upgrading to 4 door skyline.

Have had 3 offers so far on the car...

Thanks

5.25K

To paulos - I cannot reply to your PM, as my post count isnt 10 or above yet...

I'm happy to take your offer of $5,500

To dusty: If the offer from paulos falls thru, i will consider your offer of 5.25k.

Thanks

figured you couldent pm back

once we get this vectra sold il let you know

Ok, but i have the skyline advertised elsewhere, so it may sell before your vectra does! Good luck :bunny:

Hi can you post up some more pics of the exterior, enginebay, interior etc am willing to offer slightly more money. As i am in the ACT i would have to have a look next weekend at the earliest.

Cheers

I'll try and get some more pics up soon...

Exterior is in fair condition...some scratches and imperfections close up. Looks great from a distance. engine bay in good condition. Interior is clean and reasonable for the age of the car. All seats in good condition. The drivers side floor mat starting to show its age.

hey mate could be interested.

just wondering if you can put up some more pic's please?

i am in Melbourne so i can maybe come see it on the weekend if possible?

send me a pm if you are able to.

cheers mate Dean

Dusty: I'm a bit worried about you being in the ACT. I'm not selling this car with a RWC, therefore i wont be selling the car with the current license plates on the car. I've heard too many bad stories...yes the heater controls all work...does make a clicking sound sometimes though. Power windows work fine.

If someone local wants the car, i'm happy to drive it to there house, then take the plates off.

Dean: I'm happy for you to view the car this weekend....name a time....

I'll have to post up pics saturday, as i work from 6am-6pm weekdays, so no day light for photos!

More pics added!

Pics show aircon regased 5.2.09

Custom parcel shelf - mdf. Just needs carpet.

Australian Compliance plate.

Hand brake leather boot worn.

post-54603-1278724099_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724126_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724155_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724173_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724189_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724208_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724226_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724247_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724267_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724288_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724303_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724324_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724345_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724362_thumb.jpg

post-54603-1278724374_thumb.jpg

Edited by brentr33gts25t
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...