Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok just put a 45v2 turbo (rb25 series 2) on to my r32 Rb20 and a 3" front and dump pipe.

Tuner is a idiot and had the boost set at 5psi but still made 2rwkws more than the rb20 turbo at 12psi.

When i got the dyno sheet the AFR starts at 13.5:1 and dumps to 11:1 at around 5500rpm.

the bottom end of the power graph is a bit lazy.

Just wondering apart from getting a new ecu and retuning it, is their any other way of richerning the AFR?

I also have the following.

RS*R 3" cat back

drift pod filter

turbo tech boost controller.

I do wont to run it at 12PSI

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326549-rb25-turbo-on-rb20-question/
Share on other sites

If its the stock ecu, it will richen up as you turn the boost up.

But the question is why do you want it richer? 13:1 when spooling sounds ok and 11:1 on full song is pretty good to be honest.

sounds like its too rich already. turn the boost up and do a power run to make sure its safe.

13:1 and 11:1 too rich? Are you sure?

You might be surprised when asking real tuners their opinion on 12:1 AFRs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • lights are on just the one click.  
    • Absolutely matters because, while a temperature change will eventually reach a sensor at the end of a static line, the response time is far far far too slow to be useful. Might as well not have a temp gauge at all.
    • When I was eyeing off the 370GT (after deciding I didn't want to spend 30-40k+ to relive my early 20s in an R33) I thought it'd be a good project to add a turbo to it. Now that I have a 370GT, and I've had a couple of chances to open it up, I'm pretty stunned by how much power it makes 🫠 Honestly, the way the VVEL opens it up, it almost feels like there's a little turbo tucked away in there somewhere. It's like Nissan looked at VTEC and said "hold my beer" 😁 Has anyone thrown a turbo into their 370Z or 370GT? Is there a conservative boost level you can run without having to upgrade the fuel system, or are bigger injectors and a bigger pump a given?
×
×
  • Create New...