Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello again,

A while back I wrote in to say I was thinking of putting a RB30 motor in a small Toyota bus. I got lots of very good advice, thank you, but it left me with lots more investigation to do. Well, to cut a long story short, I went through just about every engine combination recommended (or possible), but I kept coming back to the RB30. It came down to a two things: (1) the RB30 has a terrific reputation and (2) the diff ratios available to me were just too low for the bigger holden V6s or a Ford straight 6.

Finally, after a long trip on the original 2.4 litre a month back it struck me that the RB30 would have HEAPS of power for the job, so I fished around and found a pretty decent 88 model skyline with 200,000km on it, registered and in very driveable condition. Aside from one sticky lifter and a slighty rough shift on the auto, it seems good, and it is in having the auto serviced now just to be sure.

Assuming they come back to me and tell me it is ok, I will be fitting the engine and auto in the bus this weekend. But it has occured to me that the shift points on the auto might be a bit out. On the one hand it will be pushing around the equivalent of the old Pajero in weight, with a lot less rolling resistance but more windage, on the other hand it will be doing so with a lower diff ratio, working out at 2600rpm at 100km/h.

So can anyone tell me if it is possible to reprogram the auto computer on these? From what I have read it seems that I have a series 2, and I have read that these use the engine management computer to control the auto. I can see how to reprogram the injectors etc in the engine, but I can't see any reference to reprogramming the shift points.

Thanks you,

Matthew

P.S. At the end of the process I will have a very stripped out 88 skyline to dispose of, from the north west peninsula of Adelaide, and it is too good to throw away. I'll be open to offers.

dont go exactly off what i say but, you will need an aftermarket computer, they can do everything, i remember speaking to someone in regards to ecus for fords and they can adjust the point in when the gear changes, i doubt you could change a stock ecu

dont go exactly off what i say but, you will need an aftermarket computer, they can do everything, i remember speaking to someone in regards to ecus for fords and they can adjust the point in when the gear changes, i doubt you could change a stock ecu

Right... sounds like it will best if I see how it goes then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...