Jump to content
SAU Community

Its Been A Long Time Since I Was Here. Have Another 32 Questions On Upgrades Please Help


Recommended Posts

Hello

It has been a while since I posted on here, over a year. I have read the posts but still need some help. Please help. I live in Japan, American, so not Australia, but dont mind buying parts from Australian stores.

I have a new 1992 R32 GTS-T. This time its a manual. My first car died. I am taking parts off of it. I am going to take the RB25 turbo with the HKS aculator and put it onto the new car.

SO far the car has a 3 inch cat back exhaust, split front pipe, stock cat, Apexi air intake and that is all. I am going to add the RB25 turbo as I mentioned. Should I keep the HKS aculator on it or put the RB20 one on?

I am getting a inter cooler also. Will used ones be fine such as ones from Blitz or Arc or used GTR ones? I can find cheap used inter-coolers here for about 100 dollars.

My goal is 300 hp but now I am aiming for 250 hp to start. Should I replace the fuel pump too since I am adding the turbo and inter cooler? If so than I will buy a after market one rated higher so when I start the big mods I will have it.

What else should I add now?

Are the Emanges' still a good option for tuning later?

Help please

What is the HKS actuator set to? If you still have a stock ECU, it will probably go into Rich & Retard mode (R&R) if it's set to 12psi or higher.

Change pump for peace of mind, it's what 18 years old now, no guarantee it will take kindly to the extra power.

Since you are aiming for 250hp, the stock intercooler will do, but at 300hp, you will need a better one, used intercoolers should be fine as long as the fins aren't damaged and you give it a good cleanout. At 300hp even the R34 stock sidemount is a decent upgrade to support that power, but no more.

What is the HKS actuator set to? If you still have a stock ECU, it will probably go into Rich & Retard mode (R&R) if it's set to 12psi or higher.

Change pump for peace of mind, it's what 18 years old now, no guarantee it will take kindly to the extra power.

Since you are aiming for 250hp, the stock intercooler will do, but at 300hp, you will need a better one, used intercoolers should be fine as long as the fins aren't damaged and you give it a good cleanout. At 300hp even the R34 stock sidemount is a decent upgrade to support that power, but no more.

Thanks

The ECU is stock. I am not sure what it is set to. The adjusting screw is at the opposite end 80% from the starting point.

So should I switch to the RB 20 aculator?

How do you clean out a inter cooler?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I might do a few more high temp bed ins as described here.  I have a nice quiet 80kph road right near me.  How To Bed-In Your EBC Brakes For Street Or Track Use - EBC Brakes https://share.google/AjnOTILXoiqQnLu8p  
    • I did a few 80-0 stomps. I then just rode the brakes while I applied throttle for a while to get them nice and hot. I live on a big hill and have been down it a few times also with stomps and brake riding.
    • Biggest thing is you're okay!   It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant!   Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out
    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
×
×
  • Create New...