Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just had a quick look along paramatta road and saw this

http://www.japlinkmotors.com.au/zoom.php?id=137

They have $28k on it, but pretty much offered it up for $22k without me even haggling!? so, not sure

if that means there's something wrong with it or what... I did spot some over spray on the drivers side skirt.

Totally original, including exhaust, no dash bubbles etc

Will go back tomorrow when I have more time to look properly.

Think I'll cancel the inspection on the one I've been looking at, I need to put more time into looking.

Edited by Braddock
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332434-japlink-motors-94-r32-gt-r-vspec-ii/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

No, it was almost dark, so I'll go back tomorrow.

Mate, that's the last thing I want to do - spend more cash the second I buy it!

Is there something wrong with the standard ones? or you mean for more power?

Looks neat. Did you take it for a test drive?

And if it has original turbo's, I'd be replacing them with some fresh garretts!

Things to check:

*Model Code, must end in AA to be a V-spec I or II (link from "Babyskyline" http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html )

*Build date must 1993 for V-spec I, 1994 for V-spec II

*Should have a finned rear diff housing (easy and common to change though apparently)

*Brembos (again easy to add)

*Rust around boot, inside wheel wells.

*Amount of black paint on the plenum, (Refer photo, the less black paint the more it has been flogged)

*Trim around the rear side windows, if it does not fit, it has had body work

* if this is all good then I will look forward to seeing your V-SpecII next to mine at the R32 21st anniversary cruise!

Thanks Ian!

Things to check:

*Model Code, must end in AA to be a V-spec I or II (link from "Babyskyline" http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html )

*Build date must 1993 for V-spec I, 1994 for V-spec II

*Should have a finned rear diff housing (easy and common to change though apparently)

*Brembos (again easy to add)

*Rust around boot, inside wheel wells.

*Amount of black paint on the plenum, (Refer photo, the less black paint the more it has been flogged)

*Trim around the rear side windows, if it does not fit, it has had body work

* if this is all good then I will look forward to seeing your V-SpecII next to mine at the R32 21st anniversary cruise!

Forgot the photo after all that!!! No worries, spent a long time looking for mine,

don't bother looking at the speedo for kilometres,

*pedal pads getting worn and leather around the handbrake/gearstick cracking happen around 100k

*as far as turbos go refer to my reply in your other thread, Timing belt would be the thing I would worry about more.

post-26910-1281432669_thumb.jpg

Mate, are you sure that Chassis plate link is correct?

Because if it is, according to the plate on this car, the car should be white, not silver!

Things to check:

*Model Code, must end in AA to be a V-spec I or II (link from "Babyskyline" http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html )

*Build date must 1993 for V-spec I, 1994 for V-spec II

*Should have a finned rear diff housing (easy and common to change though apparently)

*Brembos (again easy to add)

*Rust around boot, inside wheel wells.

*Amount of black paint on the plenum, (Refer photo, the less black paint the more it has been flogged)

*Trim around the rear side windows, if it does not fit, it has had body work

* if this is all good then I will look forward to seeing your V-SpecII next to mine at the R32 21st anniversary cruise!

Hmmm, silver V spec II - only colour they come in, with a chassis plate for a white car?

Is there anyone who can verify the paint codes? it should be BLO - not KLO

Mate, are you sure that Chassis plate link is correct?

Because if it is, according to the plate on this car, the car should be white, not silver!

Its definitely suspect! also convenient that the last few letters are scraped off the ID number

Its actually the '8' though that designates V-Spec not the AA and it does appear to have an '8' after the S

but am I wrong, or were there no white V Specs made?

Doesn't add up.

Plenums can easily be repainted and stock gearknob/leather surrounds are easily changed too...

Edit: Nice spot braddock. Vin switcharoo?

The number, or the whole plate?

This is form the "what to look for thread" This plate was definitely etched... not engraved, but not print smooth either

The BLUE Nissan Build Plate should have the details PRINTED on it... i.e. If you run your fingers over the details printed on it, it should be smooth. IT SHOULD NOT BE ENGRAVED... If it's engraved, it has a fake Nissan Build Plate with a fake Chassis Number. These are forged and put on stolen cars with a new and legitimate chassis number.

This BLUE Nissan Build Plate *should* also have two white plastic rivet-like fasteners holding it on... If they're missing, ask yourself why. The Build plate should NEVER be removed, unless perhaps for a full respray including engine bay...

Lol, the vin still looks suspect though..

Just the scratch on the model number where it matters for a VSPEC II.

Run the Vin through nissan fast? That'll let you know for sure.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...&start=1220

Edited by Ten Four
Every standard color was available in V-spec II, the pop rivets holding the build plate on look mighty strange too...

same thing as you were thinking, does any one have the body # will ask to someone in japan to verify this. The bumper insert are after market and not a stock Vspec item.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
×
×
  • Create New...