Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

soi found a bloke selling a mines tuned ECU for cefiro RB20

would my DE+T setup benefit from this?

if so, how??

this ECU is square pin so correct for cefiro... which excites me haha

advice guise??

I had a mine's ECU in my old Stagea with a RB26, was better then the stock one but not by much.

If you were to go that path definatlety get it on the dyno to check it, some have had AFR problems and extreme timing with them.

this one claims it:

removes speed limiter, shifts the redline to higher, ups the boost, modifies ignition and fuel map, and change lattice of the map, (RPM, Injection time)

i dont know much about this stuff

it says its good for:

exhaust catback (i have 3inch)

fmic (i have r34 smic) (bigger smic)

i dont want HUGE horsepower but a bit of a boost would be cool

dunno how an ecu would be able to up boost, im assuming it would be via a manual boost tee , wich i have a few of if u want one eps or trade you for one if u got anything i need :P

realy as i have come to find its worth the money to get a power fc/ biki rom/ nis tune done as it will be set up egzact to your setup and will be "safe" to a point.

my 2 cents

yeah being a DE+T im not really too keen on upping the boost to be honest...

*sigh* kinda want a new four door that way i can still hang with you dudes but have a neat new toy to play with haha

yeah - or i could NOT!

come to my house sometime. i'll take you for a drive in an RB20de+T and you tell me THEN what you'd prefer :P

don't beleive me - ask Nic...

pretty sure after he took my car for a drive was the reason he's gone with RB25DE for the time being :D

Edited by Mr Eps

I'd be doing this also.

Young matt who drifts his ceffy, he's gone nistune with the 20det. Took it to hyperdrive in malaga, reckons THE BEST tune he's ever had.

Apparently Andrew there knows his shit.

I'm still yet to have a crack at your ceffy man. Nic speaks VERY highly of it =D

Nistune setup is basically your ecu - chipped for tuneability and awesomeness.

I think with Nistune supplied, fitted and tuned Matt paid around the $800 mark. Which beats the absolute ganglean flick-knobs out of a PowerFC.

Give Hyperdrive a call tomorrow man re a quote!

Nistune isnt a TUNE as such..its a direct replacement for your ECU, you need a laptop and Nistune's software to tune it, and is fairly easy. You can tune it on the fly so to speak. Adjust your idle RPM or redline while you're driving down the road.

Eps, you want a setup that can adjust fuel maps quickly (and by yourself), perhaps Nistune, or Mines + SAFC, since you're running 20DE+T, high compression, your fuel map will be different. Your knock and O2 sensors will have fine tuned themselves while running. You go plug a 20DET ECU fuel map in, and it'll be out of whack for some time while the new ECU 'learns' its new home.

toffy - thanks for the advice - looks like i'll be leaving this one! :P

any time , usually it's $300 for the chip etc in memory and what ever else to get it tune (beats paying $1500 plus for a pfc that does the same thing)

Nistune isnt a TUNE as such..its a direct replacement for your ECU, you need a laptop and Nistune's software to tune it, and is fairly easy. You can tune it on the fly so to speak. Adjust your idle RPM or redline while you're driving down the road.

Eps, you want a setup that can adjust fuel maps quickly (and by yourself), perhaps Nistune, or Mines + SAFC, since you're running 20DE+T, high compression, your fuel map will be different. Your knock and O2 sensors will have fine tuned themselves while running. You go plug a 20DET ECU fuel map in, and it'll be out of whack for some time while the new ECU 'learns' its new home.

nah , never put an ecu that was tuned to another car in your own , ignition maps could be off the show and there is no way to adjust that with a piggy back ecu

I would suggest against a chip ECU's unless you are using it with the engine for which it was tuned (ie I bought an engine package from japan with the chipped ECU) Even still, I have a SAFC on the side to adjust it for Australian conditions.

For a DE+T you really need to tune ignition and fuel. A piggy back (emanage, SAFC etc) will only do fuel maps, and only to a small extent.

Instead of just considering Nistune versus PowerFC, what about who is going to tune it? It will be easy enough to find someone to tune them but are they your preferred tuner?

No point in saving a few hundred dollars to get a Nistune if you end up with a below par tune.

WA has wicked tuners :)

but there's a few other things i would need to sort before tuning my car...

comes with the territory of owning two "modded" cars that are both road registered ;)

emanage and SAFC are very different. both emanage ecu's have ignition tuning (blue and ultimate) if you choose to use the ignition harness.

Not as good as Nistune but far better than an unknown chipped ecu.

My partners old 180 came from japan with heaps of brand name parts, but only a chipped ecu, swapped it over for a Dr Drift ecu (for a completely different set-up mind you) and it ran a million times better.

Basically Jap tuned ecu's are useless in Australia.

Basically Jap tuned ecu's are useless in Australia.

I wouldn't go as far as saying that. My ECU came tuned from japan as an engine package. Admittedly I have the SAFC attached to help it as the tune would not suit conditions in Australia with the different fuel and climate, but as for the way it drives you would never suspect it was an aftermarket tune.

Though no point in buying one from japan just to plug in and use it here. Would be the same mentality as using a 2nd hand PowerFC and not retuning it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...