Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Pretty sure I need new brake pads and rotors, but Im now getting a terrible grinding sound occasionally coming from the brakes when Im turning without applying any brakes..

Had a look and you can see there is definantly strange wear on the left and right sides - the rears are fine.

Im thinking a wheel bearing might be gone, but I cant physically wobble the wheels with my hands..

Any ideas?

Passenger Front.

photofr.jpg

Drivers front

photo2do.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333884-brakes-help-needed/
Share on other sites

oh, I fuxked up all my pads and the rear rotors today at wakefield. Anyone know what pads will be good for the track?

My V35 is an automatic without brembo. Thanks for anyhelp=)

I did just the same thing @ QR about 2 weeks ago except I managed to crack my RDA slotted discs at the front as well

Just replaced with DBA 4000 slotted up front with Ferodo DS2500 pads

Using DBA street series blank discs on the back with Hawk ceramic pads

Also did a fluid flush and replaced with Motul 600 fluid

Bring on the next wednesday arvo sprint!

I did just the same thing @ QR about 2 weeks ago except I managed to crack my RDA slotted discs at the front as well

Just replaced with DBA 4000 slotted up front with Ferodo DS2500 pads

Using DBA street series blank discs on the back with Hawk ceramic pads

Also did a fluid flush and replaced with Motul 600 fluid

Bring on the next wednesday arvo sprint!

Mind sharing where you get them and what's the price?

will those blank discs at the back works well on the track, I got the 4000 slotted on the front, they works sublime.

but those OEM back rotors are all fuxked up.

So what I am concerning is will those blank discs = oem blank discs?

and whats the price you get it?

and the DS 2500 as well?

thanks =)

I didn’t go slotted on the rear for a few reasons

1. The guy who dose my brakes wasn’t able to get any slotted discs for a week and my rears "back left in particular" were shagged due to the pads being worn out and having metal on metal run groves in the discs

2. 70% of the hard work is done by the fronts

3. Slotting doesn’t actually do that much, its more about helping gasses from the pad escape and most new pads don’t have that problem

4. A better pad will have a much more noticeable difference than a slotted/drilled disc

So with that in mind and the new rear pads being ceramic = handles heat better. I didn’t see the need for slotted on the rear

I didint shop around with the pads price, I didint have the time to and could not be funked. My brakes were only working about 30% of what they were before I went to the track and I needed to get them fixed ASAP

Anyhow I ended up paying $277 for the DS2500 pads for the front $150 for the Hawks on the rear

I have used DS2500 pads on my old 180sx in the past which had R33 4 pot calipers/discs on the front. Compared to the 1st set of pads which were probally OEM nissan ones despite the brakes being fairly large given the weight of the car. I had fade after only 2 laps, after I changed to the DS2500 I could go the whole session 6 hot laps and not have any problems.

There is a sweet spot but when it comes to pads, if you fit pads that are too heat orieanted then they dont work as well when they are cold. The DS2500 for me work fine when cold but get better when theres some heat in them

Thanks for the information=)

I didn’t go slotted on the rear for a few reasons

1. The guy who dose my brakes wasn’t able to get any slotted discs for a week and my rears "back left in particular" were shagged due to the pads being worn out and having metal on metal run groves in the discs

2. 70% of the hard work is done by the fronts

3. Slotting doesn’t actually do that much, its more about helping gasses from the pad escape and most new pads don’t have that problem

4. A better pad will have a much more noticeable difference than a slotted/drilled disc

So with that in mind and the new rear pads being ceramic = handles heat better. I didn’t see the need for slotted on the rear

I didint shop around with the pads price, I didint have the time to and could not be funked. My brakes were only working about 30% of what they were before I went to the track and I needed to get them fixed ASAP

Anyhow I ended up paying $277 for the DS2500 pads for the front $150 for the Hawks on the rear

I have used DS2500 pads on my old 180sx in the past which had R33 4 pot calipers/discs on the front. Compared to the 1st set of pads which were probally OEM nissan ones despite the brakes being fairly large given the weight of the car. I had fade after only 2 laps, after I changed to the DS2500 I could go the whole session 6 hot laps and not have any problems.

There is a sweet spot but when it comes to pads, if you fit pads that are too heat orieanted then they dont work as well when they are cold. The DS2500 for me work fine when cold but get better when theres some heat in them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...