Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Pretty sure I need new brake pads and rotors, but Im now getting a terrible grinding sound occasionally coming from the brakes when Im turning without applying any brakes..

Had a look and you can see there is definantly strange wear on the left and right sides - the rears are fine.

Im thinking a wheel bearing might be gone, but I cant physically wobble the wheels with my hands..

Any ideas?

Passenger Front.

photofr.jpg

Drivers front

photo2do.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333884-brakes-help-needed/
Share on other sites

oh, I fuxked up all my pads and the rear rotors today at wakefield. Anyone know what pads will be good for the track?

My V35 is an automatic without brembo. Thanks for anyhelp=)

I did just the same thing @ QR about 2 weeks ago except I managed to crack my RDA slotted discs at the front as well

Just replaced with DBA 4000 slotted up front with Ferodo DS2500 pads

Using DBA street series blank discs on the back with Hawk ceramic pads

Also did a fluid flush and replaced with Motul 600 fluid

Bring on the next wednesday arvo sprint!

I did just the same thing @ QR about 2 weeks ago except I managed to crack my RDA slotted discs at the front as well

Just replaced with DBA 4000 slotted up front with Ferodo DS2500 pads

Using DBA street series blank discs on the back with Hawk ceramic pads

Also did a fluid flush and replaced with Motul 600 fluid

Bring on the next wednesday arvo sprint!

Mind sharing where you get them and what's the price?

will those blank discs at the back works well on the track, I got the 4000 slotted on the front, they works sublime.

but those OEM back rotors are all fuxked up.

So what I am concerning is will those blank discs = oem blank discs?

and whats the price you get it?

and the DS 2500 as well?

thanks =)

I didn’t go slotted on the rear for a few reasons

1. The guy who dose my brakes wasn’t able to get any slotted discs for a week and my rears "back left in particular" were shagged due to the pads being worn out and having metal on metal run groves in the discs

2. 70% of the hard work is done by the fronts

3. Slotting doesn’t actually do that much, its more about helping gasses from the pad escape and most new pads don’t have that problem

4. A better pad will have a much more noticeable difference than a slotted/drilled disc

So with that in mind and the new rear pads being ceramic = handles heat better. I didn’t see the need for slotted on the rear

I didint shop around with the pads price, I didint have the time to and could not be funked. My brakes were only working about 30% of what they were before I went to the track and I needed to get them fixed ASAP

Anyhow I ended up paying $277 for the DS2500 pads for the front $150 for the Hawks on the rear

I have used DS2500 pads on my old 180sx in the past which had R33 4 pot calipers/discs on the front. Compared to the 1st set of pads which were probally OEM nissan ones despite the brakes being fairly large given the weight of the car. I had fade after only 2 laps, after I changed to the DS2500 I could go the whole session 6 hot laps and not have any problems.

There is a sweet spot but when it comes to pads, if you fit pads that are too heat orieanted then they dont work as well when they are cold. The DS2500 for me work fine when cold but get better when theres some heat in them

Thanks for the information=)

I didn’t go slotted on the rear for a few reasons

1. The guy who dose my brakes wasn’t able to get any slotted discs for a week and my rears "back left in particular" were shagged due to the pads being worn out and having metal on metal run groves in the discs

2. 70% of the hard work is done by the fronts

3. Slotting doesn’t actually do that much, its more about helping gasses from the pad escape and most new pads don’t have that problem

4. A better pad will have a much more noticeable difference than a slotted/drilled disc

So with that in mind and the new rear pads being ceramic = handles heat better. I didn’t see the need for slotted on the rear

I didint shop around with the pads price, I didint have the time to and could not be funked. My brakes were only working about 30% of what they were before I went to the track and I needed to get them fixed ASAP

Anyhow I ended up paying $277 for the DS2500 pads for the front $150 for the Hawks on the rear

I have used DS2500 pads on my old 180sx in the past which had R33 4 pot calipers/discs on the front. Compared to the 1st set of pads which were probally OEM nissan ones despite the brakes being fairly large given the weight of the car. I had fade after only 2 laps, after I changed to the DS2500 I could go the whole session 6 hot laps and not have any problems.

There is a sweet spot but when it comes to pads, if you fit pads that are too heat orieanted then they dont work as well when they are cold. The DS2500 for me work fine when cold but get better when theres some heat in them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...