Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Summary: EOI 1995 R33 GTR Vspec (EAT26)

Location: QLD: Brisbane

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling: Expression of interest.

Asking Price: 27000

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: PM or Phone 0401 628 111

Extra Information:

1995 R33 GTR Vspec.

228Kw/305Hp 14psi safe tune.

Midnight purple.

87thou ks

3 1/2 Kakimoto Exhaust.

Greddy Profec B Spec 2 Boost controller

Greddy Auto Timer

Apexi Power Fc EL-Jetro (Installed and Tuned by Mercury)

Rota 19x9.5 +22 DPT Rims with 265x35R18 Nankang Tyres(Tyres were on the car when i bought it)

Nismo 320km Dash cluster and 3 gauge cluster

Nismo Gear Shift knob

NPC modified Exedy Nismo Clutch 4 months old (Installed by Godzilla)

Cams (were on the car when imported)

Custom Gold painted engine covers.

Carbon fibre spoiler blade (Original included as well)

Carbon fibre front lip(original was destroyed by the old owner)

Pioneer headdeck with ipod/iphone connect with 6" all round and Amp.

35% Tint. The pictures shows 5% as they were taken when it had 5%

EAT26 Personalized plates come with the car.

Car has also got racing harness points(again were on the car when it came from Japan)

I have owned this car since Feb 2010, I have had nothing but fun in this car but all of the sudden maturity has set in...

There are some scratches on the car and 1 dint due to previous owner only minor.

Car is a awesome car to drive, Im not willing to part with it for nothing.

I am interested in Swaps however Only would be on SOME cars (Evo 7+, Rx7, Vy+ SS, or Bf+ Xr6t/8 other than that it would have to be well worth my while.)

40064_134110433298700_100000992315541_176881_7717851_n.jpg

41156_134110343298709_100000992315541_176880_7693647_n.jpg

39664_134110499965360_100000992315541_176883_2109138_n.jpg

40976_134115089964901_100000992315541_176899_2890676_n.jpg

34223_122206357822441_100000992315541_121331_1730884_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334579-eoi-r33-gtr-vspec-1995-eat26/
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

GTR is now back for sale with more mods and more money spent!

Will consider swaps of a S13/180/R32 rolling/project with cash adjustment my way looking for a new project and a decent R32 GTST or 180/s13 with a Ls is a possibility ;) haha

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376530-eat26/page__p__6014353__fromsearch__1#entry6014353

Edited by EAT26
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...