Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz, I have a soundstream 2 channel Amp [260W] and i used to run my subwoofer off it.. But recently i have removed my subwoofer and still have the amp in the car, i will not be putting my sub back so i was wondering whether i could connect 2 speakers to the Amp thats already in the car and would it make a difference...

And if i should connect the amp which speakers should i connect it to...

Another thing i wanted to know,i am planning on doing a bit of sound deadning to my car but was thinking of only doing the front doors, what do u guyz recommend is the most important 1st...

Cheers!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337217-need-to-connect-amp-to-speakers/
Share on other sites

I'm surprised you could effectively run a sub off a 2 channel amp with that sort of output. Depending on what sort of speakers you have in the car I would generally recommend wiring the amp to the front speakers. My setup just runs a 4 channel Alpine amp bridged to 2 channels and only powering a good pair of front speakers with crossovers and tweeters then I have a monoblock running 2 x 12 alpine's in the boot and the sound is near perfect, not sure about how it sounds in the back of the car but had no complaints so far and considering its my car and im usually the one driving it I figure it needs to sound best for me..

Big thing to think about is if you are running the front or front and rear just off the deck they are probably getting a feed of 50W max so if they are decent speakers they are probably massively underpowered and could sound a lot clearer and nicer and be able to handle alot higher volume off an amp.

A good test if you dont wanna run all the cable and shit through the car is just wire it 'outside' the car and see if you're happy with the output then go ahead with it.

Need advice or a hand mate gimme a yell, not an audio expert but wired all my cars myself and I got a 34gtt also.

cheers,

Steve

Well im guessing the Car is still on Stock speakers.... Front and back... Yea i thought it would get clearer... So can i connect it to only the front speakers or can i connect the rears and front speakers to the amp...

Im considering on chaning the speakers,but that might be a while so for now i just wanted a bit more clarity than wats there...

Wer r u from btw? U think id be able to do it myself, i really dont know anyhting about connecting systems... :)

I'm in Perth mate.. umm from memory when I took out the stock speakers in my r34 they werent anything special so I'm not sure how much more power they can handle.. you could connect just the front or just the back technically this is 2-Channel (I believe).. I suppose you MIGHT be able to put left back and front together to left on the amp and right front and back together and do the same.. Don't know how effective this would be and you would lose the features of the deck and being able to tune it properly, fade it from front to rear speaker etc.

Umm.. Yeh you could probably do it yourself.. I taught myself, its frustrating but rewarding if it works out.. The biggest thing for you would be deciding where to put the amp.. In the car might be easier but I dont like the idea of an amp on my floor in the car or under the seat.. So my amps are in my boot which means I had to run wires from (in my case) Cable from the battery through the firewall under the carpet and the back seat and into the boot. Cable from the deck to the boot and cable from the boot to the front doors...

Oh an another tip, get decent quality wires don't get budget stuff it will cause you more headaches. Also try and run the speaker/amp wires down the OPPOSITE side of the car to your power cable. Generally speaking audio cabling is shielded but I found in my old car I used to get buzzing because I had wired them on the same side due to lazyness Lulz..

Any questions man ask away, like I said I'm far from an expert but I've received compliments on the sound of my system and I enjoy it which is the main thing.

-Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...